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Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by Samantha Pass, Jun 19, 2019.
Sounds like cheap insurance to me
Good product. I use BEHR Gal. #RP-32 Black Slate Flat Multi-Surface Exterior Roof Paint for my own house roof.
I’ve got an Alumitite roof that I drilled a couple hole thru from the ceiling when I was replacing the ceiling panels (oops) and am in the process of tearing off roof rails, etc then repainting.
With the epoxy/fiberglass mat option you suggested, do you just put down some epoxy, piece of glass mat, then some epoxy over the top? They’re 3/16” holes so I don’t need much. Had debated just using some eternabond over the top but didn’t know how painting that stuff would be. Would like something a little more polished looking if I can do it. Wasn’t sure if I should paint the roof before or after I put the eternabond over the seams that were under the roof racks.
Please report back what you ended up using to paint/seal your roof and how it turned out.
I was considering using Henry Tropi-Cool, but now noticing it is silicone vs. Acrylic. (Black-Jack Elasto-Cool 1000 is also "siliconized") When re-sealing the outside edges of the roof I learned to NEVER use silicone caulk and had to remove and thoroughly clean all remnants of PO's use of silicone caulk.
If you use a silicone based elastomeric paint, are you then not able to use acrylic Dicor (or acrylic anything) for resealing edges and around vent (anywhere silicone 'paint' was applied)?
Acrylic (Non Silicone) alternatives:
Henry Dura Brite 587 Elastomeric roof coating, Home Depot $24.97/ .9 gal
Kool Seal Elastomeric KST063-600, (Amazon unavailable right now) Walmart, $45 ($29.44 + $15.77 shpg)
I have already sealed the visible holes with Dicor lap sealant and now want to seal ant undetectable pin holes from water intrusion BEFORE I repair the interior ceiling.
I ended up buying a gallon of Ames Maximum Stretch ( https://www.amesresearch.com/product/maximum-stretch-liquid-rubber-reflective-roof-coating/ ) because it claims 98% reflectance and has a 12 year warranty, IIRC. Unfortunately I was unable to apply it before it got too cold, so I'll be doing it in the spring. I contacted the mfr and asked about the shelf life of it and they said, "It'll be fine for years as long as you haven't broken the seal and don't let it freeze." It kinda sucks cuz I had it all prepped and ready to coat, including sealing it very well with Dicor non-self-leveling lap sealant. I really like that stuff, BTW. It's really easy to work with.
Sorry I can't be more help. I'll update this thread with how it went in the spring unless we get a weird heat wave this winter and I manage to do it sooner.
Like you I think I’ll be putting off painting the roof until warmer weather. Bummed that I missed a window of time before a few winter camp trips.
I think the last thing I’d try to go cheap on is a roof sealant product. Water is the most destructive thing to a camper. For $50 more it’s not even a question.
I don't understand "What (product) is not even a question?" Personally I'm not concerned between $25 or $50 or even $100 for an effective, waterproof and cleanable roof surface. To justify $400, I'd have to hear how that was 4 times better then the $100 treatment, but it is not out of the running.
I have heard good things about the 'Siliconized' paints (like Henry Tropicool ), but I need to know if Dicor sealant will stick to that 'Siliconized' paint. Dicor obstructions specifically say to clean all old 'silicone caulk' completely Or the dicor will not stick.
The OP said one was $25 and the other $75 and they wanted to use the cheaper if they could. My point was sealing the roof was very important and not worth saving $50
Anyone have experience with 1/2" vs. 1" nap rollers in painting their roof or applying other similar thick paints to any surface?
The can says to use a 1/2 - 1" nap roller. I bought 1/2". The HomeDepot paint guy said a regular 3/8" roller would not apply the paint thick enough. I don't really have a feel for 1/2" vs. 1" nap rollers never having used them and also not used such thick 'paint'. I purchased 1 gallon of Henry Tropi-Cool. It says it can be applied between 35º - 120ºF. I'll wait for a 60-65º day to apply sometime in the next few weeks hopefully.
My new Fan-Tastic vent/ roof fan https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027XAN78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 will arrive this week, so I'll install/seal with Butyl seal tape https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07663NFZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and Dicor Lap sealant https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRF7QE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Even though this Dicor is self leveling, it does stay in place for the ≈10" vertical roof ends and a horizontal seam under the roof side aluminum extrusion. I was applying in ≈ 60ºF temp., so that may have helped vs. applying in 95º or in direct sun on a 'warm' day.
We are getting ready to tackle this. Just curious how you landed on the Tropicool for the roof? I have been debating between the Henry acrylic elastomeric and 100% silicone paint. Do you know the pros and cons of each? I want to do the right thing here. We are also putting in a fan and using dicor self leveling sealant to seal everything. I was about to purchase the non sag dicor for the sides of the roof but it’s good to know the self leveling works just fine on that part too!
I used the tropicool on my roof. I chose it over the other products because it is truly waterproof. It can withstand ponding water, while the elastomeric (cheaper) Henry’s products can not.
Did you end up sealing your roof? We are looking to do ours at the end of the summer and wondering how it worked for you? I am new to this, so please tell me if there is anything else that we need to do, as far as general maintenance for our pop up to make sure that it lasts for years to come?
I'm new to this, too, and learning as I go (& making some mistakes, unfortunately), so other, more experienced people's advice would probably be better than mine. I did finally coat the roof a few days ago and the product I got applied easily and seems to have sealed it well. One gallon was enough to do 3 good coats on our small popup roof, but that was probably unnecessary - overkill. 2 coats should be enough, I would think, and I would guestimate 1 gallon should be enough to do that on a larger roof. Obviously, I can't speak to its longevity yet. BTW, in full sun, the reflection off of it is blindingly bright!
I just put a gallon of the acrylic henry on. Not as heavy as a roof full of water. I figure if I do it every 2 years it may be a noticable amount of weight in 16 years.my pop up will be 38 years old at that point.
I used Henry Tropicooll (887 IIRC) on my roof. It feels like a (several times) thicker than paint rubbery coating. I love it. The only downside is that the silicone attracts dust. It literally wipes right off. When washing with a hose, the water rinses it all away, so that is OK for me. I like that my roof is completely and well sealed! Do know that no paint or Dicor sealant will stick to this! I got around this by removing the old and redoing the Dicor around the edges of the roof. Two months later I painted the roof (over the Dicor). I was in the process of also installing a new Fan-tastic Fan, so I masked a 1/2" space around where the fan frame would sit, and installed it later with Dicor bonding to the original OEM roof surface. Turned out great. I'll share pics when I get time.
I hope I would have wound up learning about these incompatibilities as I got closer to buying a coating, but I am SO GLAD you pointed it out here. Major headache-saver. I am leaning toward an acrylic, for future flexibility.
Now here's a question...
If the roof surface is in relatively good shape, why not just use normal paint?
I have pebbled fiberglass, and long-term moisture isn't a concern for the PUP's homebase in the Mojave Desert.
Latex is a rubber/plastic. Have at it. I do wonder sometimes if our belt and suspenders and granny's favorite earrings approach isn't a little over the top. (Roofing joke.)
I coated my fiberglass roof with Henry 587 Dura-Brite this evening. The surface had significant yellowing and staining, and I was worried when I first started rolling it on. But! Thankfully 1 gallon was plenty for about 3 coats to give a nice even white on 14' x 8.5' of surface. It even covered the light brown Bondo repairs I had made the day before. Highly recommended for those that aren't looking to go the full silicone route.