Part 3 - Camper Wiring (To original Thread)

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by Kerry L. Calkins, Aug 21, 2019.

  1. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins New Member

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    Great news! I got some assistance today from one of my neighbor's father and master electrician. The 110v Side of my camper wiring is resolved. Here is the rundown:
    1 - First we determined that I cannot plug my camper's shore power cord (30 amp w/ step down adapter to align with 20 amp house power) into any of my garage pr exterior receptacles as all are GIFI circuits. All attempts to plug into GIFI trip the breaker due to we believe the neutral/ground sensitivity.
    2 - With a 12 gauge 20 ft extension cord (borrowed) I connected to a 20 amp 110v receptacle I was able to successfully plug in the camper without tripping the house circuit breaker. So I need to get my own heavy duty extension cord to keep in the camper so connection to home house power is possible. Should not be an issue for camp ground shore power or my generator as neither would be GIFI receptacles.
    3 - The original continuity on ground to neutral problem continued until we discovered that the primary copper 12 gauge ground from trailer to converter box (despite being a step in the unit wiring directions) MUST NOT be connected so that the converter gets its ground ONLY from the bonded house power ground and not the trailer frame. Only part of wiring using this ground should be 12v side. Other notes:
    A - I coiled up the excess copper ground and insulated it and secured it to back wall of converter cabinet.
    B - My old converter had and needed this ground to frame to operate.
    C - I am now only using the main ground to connect to the neutral feeds on the 12v side from converter to battery and 12v circuits.
    4 - My Parallax converter has a 30 amp (main) which must be on for any 110v to work. It also has a 20 amp circuit (part of standard camper wiring) for an A/C unit. I have no A/C so this circuit while installed just terminates in a covered receptacle. So I intend never to turn the 20 amp breaker on (unless an appliance is installed). Under that plate I did find a loose connector wire cap in the box; and fixed same.
    5 - The camper also has 2 - 15 amp circuits ... one feeds a 110v duplex outlet on interior front (for something plugged in and on table); the other feeds two 110v receptacles in series on the interior back (perhaps for refrigerator and convenience power).
    6 - With the main ground disconnected and main and both 15 amp breakers on, I get 120v at each outlet.

    NEXT UP: Work on 12v side is next.

    CO Spartan
     
  2. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins New Member

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  3. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins New Member

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    IT IS DONE! ...

    All the 12v wiring is finally done and tested. I ended up having to run a separate 12 gauge AWG white neutral wire from the converter neutral out to the negative battery post. I got the wire at NAPA. This line was called for in the installation instructions, but the prior converter never this direct neutral wire to neg battery terminal. I managed to get another wire through the existing penetration through the floor. Routed the wire through the frame and terminated with post connector. So attached to the battery negative post I have the line from the converter, the ground wire to the trailer frame, and the negative to the solar adapter. On positive post I have the hot wire from the trailer harness umbilical connector (from the truck), the hot wire to the converter, and the hot wire to my solar adapter.

    Tested and found out that the 110v 15 amp breaker circuit controls the outside camper lights and the trickle charger to the battery. I did some wiring management and fixed the trailer harness in-frame plug. The connector was fine, but the formed plastic tension ears that helped hold it in place were shot. Rather than just taping it in place, I modified the plug by adding some cushion (part of an old flip flop sole) cut to fit so it would hold tight. I applied some gorilla glue and pressed it in place. I put some silicone sealer around the outside edge and around the back side (in tongue frame). Labeled the 110v breakers and the 12v fuses.

    So glad to have this project completed.

    Colorado Spartan
     
    Sjm9911 likes this.

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