Pop up door popping open!

Discussion in 'First Time & New Camper Owners' started by SuzieQ, Aug 29, 2011.

  1. SuzieQ

    SuzieQ New Member

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    Well, we just completed a 16 day road trip which went pretty smoothly... except our door to our pop up kept 'popping' open while travelling on the road despite us locking it..parden the pun!..just wondering if anyone else has had this issue...our solution was to ducktape it shut, but this solution only lasted so long..not fun having to pullover on the bridge which crosses the Boston harbor to re-ducktape our door!...the last day of our trip, we met a lovely couple in Maine who suggested we use a bungy cord to keep it shut..they gave us one which worked perfectly!..too bad we hadn't thought of this ourselves 15 days prior!
     
  2. Richard

    Richard Take kids camping. It's great for you and them.

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    SuzieQ, this is a pretty common problem, and can have lots of solutions/causes. The bungie is a good safeguard. Also try adjusting the position of the striker on the door frame. The camper flexes some going down the road. Do a search on this board and you'll find lots of different ways people have solved this problem. One of them is bound to work for your issue. Good luck!
     
  3. SuzieQ

    SuzieQ New Member

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    Thanks, Richard!...we are real newbs!
     
  4. Richard

    Richard Take kids camping. It's great for you and them.

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    Suzie, the top of my door frame kept getting wider and wider, and I had adjusted the striker all I could. I'm pretty sure that either my bumbling as a newbie (a few years ago) with putting the stabalizers down before popping up didn't help. It also didn't help that I'm a big guy and I sleep on the tounge-end bunk, which tended to bend that end down widening the door frame. My solution was two part. First, I made a support for the middle of the front bunk that sits straight down on the tounge. Solved that problem, and made a world of difference in the comfort and stillness of the bunk. Second, I put the door-dise front and back stabalizers down in such a way that the tire was slightly off the ground (now this wasn't too smart, since they are stabilizers and not jacks, and the frame isn't designed to hold this without bending. That was the plan, though.) I jumped in the doorway until the frame bent back to the point that the door stayed closed. I can't recommend this method, but it worked.
     
  5. DelorFamily

    DelorFamily Member

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    I had the same issue with my N2U PUP. Turned out that I missing a few screws in the hinges and the remaining ones were loose... After fixing that, my travel door now stays closed!
     
  6. Richard

    Richard Take kids camping. It's great for you and them.

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    Delorfamily, I've got a cuple of screws loose, but unfortunately they are in my head, not on the camper. I'm glad your repair was straightforward.
     
  7. nimrod65

    nimrod65 Member

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    Does it matter what brand pop up this happens to?
     
  8. Richard

    Richard Take kids camping. It's great for you and them.

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    Nimrod, it sure does. Some are more prone to the problem than others. Again, a search of the board can provide more details than I know about. I've heard that the PUPs with doors behind the axle are far more likely to have a problem.

    More people seem to have problems with the door popping open when setup than when going down the road. If it happens when setup, the most likely culprit is that the camper isn't level. Many, many pup problems can be solved with proper leveling, and with proper use of the stabilizers. For most PUPs it's level, raise top, then put stabilizers down. Remember, the stabilizers are meant to keep the pup stable, not bear the main weight of the PUP. That weight should be on the axle.
     
  9. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    ^THIS!

    A door adjacent to a short wall section at the rear of the trailer is usually prone to this issue. The problem seems to occur over time as the rear wall is forced down by the weight of the bunk. The wood in the wall(s) may have gotten wet, softening enough for it to work loose. As you bounce down the road, the roof clasps may not be tight enough, allowing the rear end to rock down and away from the wall section adjacent to the door. Viola! The door keeps popping open.

    Yes, I've got one of those...

    [​IMG]

    In the short term? Tighten the roof clasp over that short section of wall prior to traveling.

    In the long term? Check the areas I've mentioned above.

    *sigh*
     
  10. Richard

    Richard Take kids camping. It's great for you and them.

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    Yes Dubbya, that's the exact thing I was thinking that I had seen someplace. Thanks.
     
  11. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    Neither one of my Starcraft p'up bunks have that much weight being applied to the rear or front walls. True, there are the bunk end supports that attach to the front and rear walls, but they simply do not have that much weight onto the walls. The far ends of the supports do hold the majority of the weight, but they transfer that weight down to either the front A-frame or the rear sub-frame. The back ends of the bunk are still in their tracks, which are connected to the side walls and what supports that weight.

    No doubt that when things become loose or disconnected, or like you said walls rotted out, who knows what that might effect. But the base foundation of the camper is the frame. For the front, the A-frame is connected to the main frame rails, which is main the strength of the camper. The rear bunks supports are connected to the sub-frame, which is also connected to the main frame rails. The sub-frame supports the camper floor and walls (along with those rear bunk supports). Quite often persistent door problems (besides the usual leveling and the setting up procedures), can be traced to rotting wood and usually it's the floor. Just as often, however, it can also be traced to not enough subframe right at the door area. The ultimate remedy for that problem has been to reinforce the subframe (underneath) at the door area. It seems the ever quest to lighten the weight (and maybe the cost, too?) of the camper is to take away from the subframe.
     
  12. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    More a cost/profit issue than weight methinks! Regardless, it's quite evident that they're not built for longevity. I'd estimate that 10 years would be the average life expectancy for these things.

    Unless one of us gets hold of it.. then it just keeps getting better and better! LOL
     
  13. nimrod65

    nimrod65 Member

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    My Jayco has the door in front of the tire. So it won't be prone to this happening? The door coming open in transit is the reason we sold the teardrop. I don't want the same problem with mu PUP.
     
  14. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Definitely not as common to see this issue with the door "centered". It's a non issue with one piece doors as well.

    *sigh* One piece doors... [A]
     
  15. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    The two piece doors (with the bottom being the main door), that I'm familiar with, have adjustments at the hinges and striker to some degree. Also, speaking for the Starcrafts I've owned, the roof also closes down tight enough so the door could not open (again, assuming the door is squared).

    The issues of the doors popping open is when the camper is opened. Also, there have been a couple of posts concerning doors forward of the wheels. In those issues, plus a couple more of "spongy" floors right at the door area, the remedy was to reinforce the subframe right under and at the door area. But care has to be taken when doing so to make certain the step can still slide in and out.
     

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