popup power turns on, then off on either battery or plugged in. no tripped breakers or fuses.

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by cgm, Aug 6, 2019.

  1. cgm

    cgm New Member

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    Hi all, I have a basic understanding of wiring... but i have a number of issues. I bought the camper used last year and used it once. I used power off of the battery and had similar issues.

    I have a Rockwood Premeir 1908
    [​IMG]
    1) I wasn't getting power to one of my tail lights when hooked up to my truck. My truck wiring was tested and works. the bulb isn't the issue because i could switch the bulbs and they worked. Well, next i disassembled the tail light that wasn't working, and now neither lights work. none of the running lights seem to be working.

    Could this be a ground issue? I was hoping i blew a fuse when monkeying around with my multimeter, but they were fine.

    2) I popped it up this morning, switched to the battery and the lights turned on inside. I turned them off, and now nothing. I hooked up to power from my house, and the lights turned on for a moment, then nothing.

    Could all of my issues be related?
    Here is my converter:
    [​IMG]

    Here is the wiring behind it. Does this look normal?
    [​IMG]

    For some reason, the PO cut this wire to my propane detector... could this be my culprit? Can anyone think of a reason to do this?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    Tail light certainly could be a ground issue, not related to inside lights.

    Find the safety switch that turns off the lights, many times activated by flipping over the sink, this switch turns the light power off/on. On when setup and off for storage. Trace wires up the tenting looking for a plug or wore wires.

    Magnetek uses red for batt + input and white for ground. The blue & blue with strip are the 12v+ OUT from the magnetek. You can meter on the back, test the red to white, blue to white and blue w/strip to white.
     
  3. cgm

    cgm New Member

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    I don't have a switch in the sink, on the converter, i have a switch for ac/off/dc

    are you suggesting that I check the blue and blue white to look for some sort of cut in the wires?

    If it makes a difference, i just checked the voltage at the battery, and i'm only getting 11.45 volts. I am assuming that if i have the camper plugged in, the system should be charging the battery, right?
     
  4. cgm

    cgm New Member

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    update... i reconnected the ground to the propane detector, swtiched on the 12v, and it powered up but the light for low voltage came on. no surprize.

    I plugged in to 110 ac and it is getting power... but still flashing low voltage. i did not expect that. it now beeps every once in a while. im am guessing that is why the ground was cut to it by the PO. Time to plug something into the outlet to see if they are working.
     
  5. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    Your magnetek does not charge the battery, you will need to get a battery charger, your battery may no longer be of much use.

    You have 2 12v circuits, blue and blue/white. one of these likely goes to a safety switch before going up to the ceiling lights, find it and check it. Another place wires get disconnected or intermittent is the wire going to the ceiling usually is a tube sown into the tenting. Commonly there is a plug so the tenting can be removed, this plug can get loose or the wires can get crimped from lowering. Trace and check.

    Plugged in with the Conv/off/Batt switch in 'conv' mode you should get constant voltage at the back of the converter, either the blue + and a white - or the blue/white + and white -.

    Switched to 'batt' and the batt + goes in via the red wire and then out via the blue wires. The battery neg to frame wire and converter white wire to frame complete the circuit via the frame.
     
  6. cgm

    cgm New Member

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    how do i check power at a wire at the back of the converter where there are no exposed connections? i have a multi meter and a 6/12v tester light.

    I did not find any safety switches around the sink or along the blue/white wires running up to the lights. I did find one set of wire taps. instead of butt connectors or soldering wires
    [​IMG]
     
  7. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    That's the blue/white circuit going to the roof.
    you probe into the back of the wire nut or you unscrew the wire nut.
    You can also then probe at the light fixture, those blue crimp connectors can be an issue.

    If you have constant power at the converter and none at the light there is an issue between.
     
    cgm likes this.
  8. cgm

    cgm New Member

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    after i posted asking how to do it, i realized that i;m an idiot and that the splice connectors have bare wire exposed. It tested fine at the converter, then at the splice connectors up the wall, the lights flickered. I replaced the garbage spice connectors with marine grade butt connectors and...

    Success! I now have consistently fucntional interior dome lights. My two issues are to replace the propane detector and to figure out the trailer lights!

    I have a feeling that i will need to replace a bunch of the splice connectors with butt connectors and I will be good to go (i hope!). Today was a pain, but i did wrap my head around the electrical system of the trailer. it looks like i now need to pick up a trickle charger.

    Thanks everyone!
     
    neighbormike likes this.
  9. SteveP

    SteveP Well-Known Member

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    Probably do better to buy a real charger, 10 amp or better, with 3 stage charging and a maintenance cycle. It will take a trickle charger several days to charge your battery, if it's recoverable.
     
    cgm likes this.
  10. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    The connectors in your pic are scotch locks....junk .Propane detector
    is bad, they should be replaced every 5 years. PO cut the wire so he wouldn't have to listen to it beeping...
     
    neighbormike likes this.

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