Range/Stove copper fuel line leaks

[MissMandy]

Hello all,

I'm a first time PUP owner and scored a great deal on a 1994 Coleman Fleetwood Destiny Royale in amazing condition for $1600. The only (non user error) flaw I've noticed so far is the copper fuel line that connects the indoor range/stove to the gas line has a leak. It was fastened too tight that I could't remove it with my hands to clean and had to use a wrench to undo it but now that it is reattached it is leaking above the nut so I'm thinking it was fastened too tight by the previous owner and compromised something.

I'm having a hard time locating the part or the accurate term for it! Can anyone help me with this?

Thank you so much!
Mandy (and Toto the Trailer)

 

[SteveP]

The flare on the copper tube may be damaged or you may just not have it tight enough. Some say not to use sealant on flare fittings but most of the plumbers that I know do. If you do use sealant use only the special lp sealant in the yellow tube. If you can't get it to seal contact your local lp supplier, they might be willing to make you a replacement tube with new flares on both ends, but you'll likely have to remove it from the stove and take it in for them to use as a model. Be careful, if you crimp the copper tube it may have to be replaced.

 

[MissMandy]

The flare on the copper tube may be damaged or you may just not have it tight enough. Some say not to use sealant on flare fittings but most of the plumbers that I know do. If you do use sealant use only the special lp sealant in the yellow tube. If you can't get it to seal contact your local lp supplier, they might be willing to make you a replacement tube with new flares on both ends, but you'll likely have to remove it from the stove and take it in for them to use as a model. Be careful, if you crimp the copper tube it may have to be replaced.

Thanks Steve, I'll try hand tightening it with a wrench first then if that doesn't handle it I'll look to see if the copper was compromised!

 

[Sjm9911]

You need 2 wrenches to tighten or loosen them. Copper is soft and will bend, crease, damaging it. You could also get a flare tool to make your own, but they are not the easiest to use. Also make sure the fitting does not have any debris in it. Or it may cause it to not seal.

 

[MissMandy]

You need 2 wrenches to tighten or loosen them. Copper is soft and will bend, crease, damaging it. You could also get a flare tool to make your own, but they are not the easiest to use. Also make sure the fitting does not have any debris in it. Or it may cause it to not seal.

Thank you! I will try using two as using one only made the leak go from above the nut, to below it

 

[Steven Alleman]

If you can't get it to stop leaking you may be able to find a local plumber that could make up a new one,the nuts could be reused and it would just need a short new piece of flared copper.

 

[Mark60]

You will definately have to use a 2- wrenches on a flare fitting on copper, hand tight will never work.

 

[WrkrBee]

You need a tubing cutter, with notched wheels, for cutting flared ends off tubing. Debur the end of the cut tube. Put your flare nut on the tubing, in the right direction. Clamp the die on the tubing and run the flare tool in to spread the end. If flare is too big file some off, so the nut fits over the flared end. It's not that hard.

 

[tfischer]

All parts here are available at your local home center (e.g. big orange box). I would replace the flare nut, although you might not need to. As indicated above, use a tubing cutter to remove the existing flare, then replace the flare nut, and use a flaring tool to put a new flare on the pipe. all should then be well.

 

[tenttrailer]

You need 2 wrenches to tighten or loosen them. Copper is soft and will bend, crease, damaging it. You could also get a flare tool to make your own, but they are not the easiest to use. Also make sure the fitting does not have any debris in it. Or it may cause it to not seal.

+2. working with pluming you should alway use two wrenches once you hand tighten it.

 

[SouthJerseyCamper]

You should use something called flare-nut wrenches, which are specifically made for these types of fittings.
And you should use 2 of them. Good wrenches have a wider width end for better grip on the brass fittings, and the other end can slip over a brake line or whatever to really grab it without slipping. Use soapy water after you tighten to check for leaks. I had to break mine at the heater to service it, sealed back fine. They are very tight to prevent leaks, but I don't usually use tape or goop on these types of fittings. You shouldn't have to. Don't twist the copper tubing whatever you do.

 

[MissMandy]

You will definately have to use a 2- wrenches on a flare fitting on copper, hand tight will never work.

Thanks!! two wrenches did it! I guess I just didn't think it would be so inconvenient to move inside and out by having to use two, but now I know and now I have'em! Thanks again everyone!

 

[tfischer]

You shouldn't have to be using wrenches to move an indoor/outdoor stove between the two locations. They typically have a quick-connect fitting on them.

 

[MissMandy]

You shouldn't have to be using wrenches to move an indoor/outdoor stove between the two locations. They typically have a quick-connect fitting on them.

I would have to agree with you but sadly for some reason the one I have doesn't have a quick disconnect on the inside of the camper.

 

[tfischer]

I'd add such a connection in. I'd be worried about wearing down the flare fitting by using it regularly, and even if that's not an issue it's inconvenient as all heck.

 

[MissMandy]

I'd add such a connection in. I'd be worried about wearing down the flare fitting by using it regularly, and even if that's not an issue it's inconvenient as all heck.

I hear you. I have another Coleman stove that I’ll use for the outside kitchen rather than worrying about switching anything as I wouldn’t even know how to change that out.