Rear Bunk Center Post Support "Contraption"

Discussion in 'My Favorite Mods, Tips, Tricks (and Blunders!)' started by rob2218, Dec 14, 2014.

  1. razorbackcamp

    razorbackcamp New Member

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    That is what they are. picked them at Harbor freight for around $20. I cut one of the rubber pad off one end. Then 3/4" galvanized floor plates screwed into the bunk end with a 1/2" fender washer between the plate and plywood to distribute weight and so the bar wouldn't cut into the wood.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. razorbackcamp

    razorbackcamp New Member

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    better pictures. as you can see the king bunk end pole is about 16" from the end of the bunk. This put a lot of pressure on the C-channel slides and caused them to bend before.

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  3. Camp-N-Nuts

    Camp-N-Nuts KrustyKamper

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    Now I can make out "Cargo Bar"! Thanks! [8D]
     
  4. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    Great idea....!
    what does the bottom look like? the part that touches down on earth?
    that's another concern I had. the base if it's not sitting on asphalt or concrete....what if it's sitting on "grass" or soft dirt/sand? what's the pad at the bottom?
     
  5. razorbackcamp

    razorbackcamp New Member

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    The bars have a "roughly" 2 1/2 x 4 inch pad already installed from factory. I removed the one end so they would set in the cup of the floor plate. Haven't had any issues with sitting up on grass. Just just get it set up then wiggle a little to move the soft first layer. I did by 4 6x4 inch blocks to carry with us but have yet found a need to use them.
     
  6. Sonshine

    Sonshine Member

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    thdewey likes this.
  7. Sonshine

    Sonshine Member

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    The outer sleeve is 2" pvc and the inside sleeve is 1 1/2" pvc. The total length extended without the screw jacks is 53 1/2" It could go longer but I wanted to leave some length inside for added support.
    The holes can be drilled at whatever distance apart you want. The threads on the jack piece do not match the threads on the pvc piece as I didnt have the jacks when I picked up the pvc. I also wasnt sure if the pvc threads would support the weight and not strip out.
    Currently the jacks just rest against the bottom of the bunk. I have thought of attaching a piece of angle iron to the bottom to spread out the support or add a plate to the bunk to anchor the jack into to keep it from moving around.
     
  8. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    I did an almost similar sleeved PVC with the hitch pin to pass thru the holes.
    I like what you did with the fine tuning of the threaded rod inside the smaller PVC sleeve. You can then just turn the thread up or down to get that "exact" height you need.
    nice work.
     
  9. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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  10. RhinoDave

    RhinoDave Active Member

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    You are correct. It is designed to be a load bar and not a vertical support. I would guess it will hold much more weight vertically but am not sure exactly how much more. I would not hesitate to use two of these in conjunction with the regular bunk end supports. I never saw a need for them with my old Niagara and we weighted in at about 400 lbs on the bunkend.
     
  11. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    I've seen another fellow PUP forum member state he and his wife...over 400 as well.....actually use a device like this one in a vertical position. Seems he said it held him up ok.

    Now....a "column" (vertical hollow pole) is much stronger in compression in a vertical access than it would be in a horizontally loaded access. Which I'm sure a shaft like this one could hold up a considerable amount of weight. I've seen they make pop-out support stabilizers as well but they are expansive.
    Guess you pay for functionality and not for creativity on how to use a device other than for it's intended use.

    I'll have to go to Walmart or Harbor Freight and see what they have there.
    In the meantime, my simple 2 PVC sleeves one inside the other, so far has sufficed.

    The only reason I need a support for one of my bunk ends is, cause...well until I can get to fixing the entire rear panel wooden internal frame, this will just have to do...the rear panel wood support frame is a bit...umm...well, "soft" if you will at the corners. At some point, when I have a big enough space (volume) to open up the camper and I can tear into the corner panel framework...then I'll correct the problem but until then....a center support contraption type slider pole will just have to suffice.
     
  12. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    I'm wondering if "diagramatically" (see red lines with circles) some sort of "cable' could be attached to the vertical telescoping poles and the side edge of the bunk end frame? that way...the vertical roof support could also act as a tension structure if you will to hole up the bunk ends?
    What say thee?
    [​IMG]
     
  13. RhinoDave

    RhinoDave Active Member

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    Cable supported bunkends are pretty much standard on newer Coachman and Viking tent trailers. I suppose you could do an aftermarket modification to do something similar. Do a search on: Glide-n-Lock Cable Supported Bed System
     
  14. gruss

    gruss Active Member

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    Re: Rear Bunk Center Post Support "Contraption"

    I'd be weary of loading up 1 side during setup on a lift system not designed to flex that way...cable system would be sweet tho.

    sent from a phone.
     
  15. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    SORRY....it wouldn't be just loading up "one" side but rather cables on all 4 corners...
     
  16. gruss

    gruss Active Member

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    Re: Rear Bunk Center Post Support "Contraption"

    If you can set up both ends at the same time, if you pull out 1 side first, the cables are gonna pull the roof towards that side until you get the other end out to even it back up. Not sure if it would be a problem, just something to think about.

    sent from a phone.
     
  17. RhinoDave

    RhinoDave Active Member

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    A bigger problem would be when you actually went to bed. Think two adults on the larger end and maybe two small kids or no one on the other. You would not only stress the roof, but pull up on the lighter bunkend. Lots to think about if doing this mod. A trip to a Coachman tent trailer dealer might be a good first step to actually see how the cable support system is constructed.
     
  18. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    Re: Rear Bunk Center Post Support "Contraption"

    Yes.....your comment makes sense.
    Trying to simply come up with alternates.....but.....in the end I believe I'm simply going to have to tear into that rear panel, remove ALL the bad wood framing and rebuild the wooden skeletal framework that these older PUPs were made out of and perhaps add some additional corner steel angle reinforcement and move forward from there. Again, as always, trying to "bandage" the situation and not attacking it head-on as one should.
     
  19. gruss

    gruss Active Member

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    Re: Rear Bunk Center Post Support "Contraption"

    I hear ya...but dealing with an old pup before..bandages often make it worse. If you have bad wood, adding stress in a direction it was never designed to take when new could make the situation worse.

    sent from a phone.
     

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