I just gutted a recently purchased 2007 Aliner. For my Dometic fridge, I was planning to isolate the outside access area and segregate the upper and lower sections (lower access is for propane lighting and control with a small channel for air passage duct from upper to lower section, and upper access panel is the electric switches and cooling fins). I planned on mounting double computer cooling tower fans with a second set stacked on them. I did this on numerous computers , and the fan acts as a doubler. You install a rheostat on the "outer fans" and run them slightly slower they will speed up due positive air pressure behind them. The reason to do this is to not over speed the outside ones losing efficiency.. You get 3 times the air movement without the electrical draw of 2 fans. The purpose of this will be to use the upper as an intake and lower as an exhaust. This will also keep out moisture at the floor / cabinet interface and exhaust all CO from the propane burner out of the camper.
I also plan on now incorporating the hinge proposed by Beech350guy - that is a really clever idea!!!!
Great idea. My 2000 coleman still does not cool very well. Anything else that could help??Hi everyone! We just wanted to share a little hack that might help some in hotter climates. We used to own “Smart RV Products”, and used to manufacture the “Fridge-Fix” line of products for RV refrigerators. Trailer Life and Motorhome magazines featured the Fridge-Fix a couple times, and we are so thankful for their articles!. For roughly 8 years we helped RV’ers solve problems with their refrigerators. We have since moved on, as our family requires more time now, but we thought we would share a little hack.
If you look at how RV refrigerators are installed, the access panels are part of the problem in hot climates. There is a stupid amount of bad information online, some of it is even dangerous. Half of the battle in hot weather is getting the heated air out of the cooling unit area. If you look at the design of the access panel, heated air actually has to defy the laws of physics to leave the rear of the fridge. Meaning, heated air has to descend to leave the panel grates. When poor performance is experienced, the easiest thing to eliminate is the overheated rear compartment. Obviously, we have a high-wall product, but this technique can be used on any of the fridge installations.
I made these brackets out of old hangers, and needle nose pliers. Pay no attention to the water stained plywood in the pic, that was done by an enthusiastic 9 year old with a hose during a wash . In a light rain, even with this little hack installed, the rain does not run into the compartment. That being said, if its going to storm hard, I usually reinstall the panels as normal, then put the brackets back in when the hot weather comers back.
It’s really simple: If the cooling unit fins are exposed to ambient air, the fridge will stay much cooler. Even if its 120 degrees outside, if there is ambient air at the cooling unit fins, your fridge will function much better. In our experience, even if the RV is in direct sunlight, it doesn’t matter. If the cooling unit has ambient air running through the cooling fins, your battle will be much easier.
Hope this helps!
View attachment 69823
View attachment 69824 View attachment 69825 View attachment 69826 View attachment 69827
Does any one a link to the directions on how to install a 12v fan, on the back of the fridge fins please? I noticed on my last 2 trips that my fridge wasn't keeping up with temps & I think the fan mod will help with that. I've seen several discussions over the years, but now I'm ready to do it, I can't find the links. I was hoping to buy this kit from Home Depot, unless anyone has any better recommendations?
Keep your RV refrigerator ventilated and cool with the Quick Products RV Refrigerator Vent Cooling Fan! Available in two sizes (90mm and 120mm), the fans attach to the ventilation at the back of your refrigerator, bringing cooler air in and pushing warmer air out for a more efficient cooling...www.homedepot.com
I would route it up someplace convenient inside, as if the fans get noisy at night you have a means of turning them down or off.I can't find instructions for that one, even on the Quick Products web page. As I mentioned in post #23, best solution is EXAUST fan(s) in the top vent. This kit could probably be installed in that manner. Not sure where the control switch is supposed to be located.
You can save some money if you just get a couple 12v computer fans on Amazon and a 12v switch too. Not the prettiest, but it's effective and cheap. Here's on my last camper, current one looks similar.I would route it up someplace convenient inside, as if the fans get noisy at night you have a means of turning them down or off.
If you hook the positive (red) to battery positive (like the terminal for your fridge) and the same for black, if the fans are spinning the wrong way, This particular setup is a basic computer fan frame, and you should be able to either swap the brackets to the other side, or somehow fasten them to the vent. I would hook them up reverse polarity (switch the wires) and see if the controller works that way as well. Most do, as it is essentially a variable resistor, but I cannot say with this particular make.
With something like this, I personally would make a removable frame or at least install a quick connect for the wires at the vent , as I would be removing the vents to operate my switches and not wanting to wrestle with a fan being the way. (all my controls are on the back of the unit).
I fully intend on making this modification and will post a how to when I get to that point, but currently my popup is gutted and I am laying epoxy on the new subfloor today. Lol , I have to get this trailer together as my wife is not a winter camper, and this trailer might turn into the proverbial "doghouse.