Removing Wobble

There have been discussions on how to reduce the wobble in a PUP.
I am going to install 2 sets of BAL Lock Arm Stabilizing Bars on my Niagara.
My first thought was to install a set on opposing corners, with each stabilizer having an arm pointing fore/aft, and one pointing left/right.

After thinking about it a little more, I though it might be better to install the four arms on each of the four stabilizers- the front right stabilizer having the arm point across the trailer (side to side), the left front arm pointing back to the rear, the left rear arm pointing sided to side, and the right rear arm pointing forward.

Both methods would have 2 arms addressing side to side movement, and two arms addressing front to back movement, but in a slightly different way.

The instructions don't really address it, and show pictures of a 5th wheel installation with four arms on the front stabilizers.

I am wondering if there is an advantage to one way or the other?

 

Really, any movement at all is seems to be transferred. Not so much sleeping, but walking about, entering/exiting, etc.
I've got a BAL chock and the BAL Leveler, I keep my tongue jack short (Lynx + 4x4), and the stabilizers short (Lynx), but the wobble remains.
The stabilizers are going to get installed, I only want to do it once. FWIW, I emailed BAL, the email was returned as un-deliverable because I wasn't on their "list".

 

I installed two sets of the Lock-Arm Stabilizing Bar
Total time from tool gathering to clean up was about 1.5 hours. The first one took about 35 minutes, the next one about 20, and the last two about 10 each. I mounted one bar on each corner, the front right stabilizer having the arm point across the trailer (side to side), the left front arm pointing back to the rear, the left rear arm pointing sided to side, and the right rear arm pointing forward.
These arms have taken 80-90% of the wobble out of the trailer, I am really happy with how this product works.

The wobble comes from the "slop" in the stabilizers themselves. These are the OEM crank down stabilizers, and there is a considerable amount of play in the stabs, at any distance. The lone drawback is that I will need to carry a dedicated 3/4 wrench to tighten/loosen the lock arms, the toolkit I carry does not have a combo wrench that large. I'll store it with the crank for the stabs.

 

It's actually up in the driveway, I can check on that for you tonight.

 

I crank my stabs down pretty tight. The wobble is actually from the "slop" in the stabs themselves. This solution works very well.

 

That is exactly how it works. You don't need to really tighten the bolt much to get it to "lock". The inner tube is fairly stout, but I too would assume some deformation of the inner tube, only time will tell if it hinders the performance.

 

You can't see inside it, and it appears that they've done something to the thread so it doesn't back out on it's own. It doesn't "easily" unscrew much past just barely open. It seems about a 1/4 turn from open to locked.
I'll take a closer look tonight

 

I loosened the front arms, laid down on the front bunk and had DW come in, walk around and go out. Just having one set deployed reduces the wobble considerably. Maybe 70% Adding the second takes it to 90%. I would say if you want to greatly reduce the wobble, one set would do it. If you want to nearly eliminate it, two.

The bolts look flat, based on a contact mark made on the inner tube of the front left arm.