Replace duct tape with what?

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by undara12, Jul 26, 2018.

  1. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    DSCN2578.JPG I pulled the rear corner caps off the roof of my 2006 Fleetwood Santa Fe to see where the dripping water was coming from. What looks like plastic duct tape covers the big holes in the roofing material at the corners. Is there a better material or technique for closing these holes than duct tape? Any suggestions for sealing material to use between the aluminium roof and the plastic corner cap would also be appreciated. I used Geocel Pro DSCN2577.JPG Flex RV for the Yakama rails to roof seal and results seem good. I would like to stay with Geocel in other parts of the roof if possible.
     
  2. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

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    Did you take the cap off of another corner? You can see how they are sealed.
     
  3. generok

    generok Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    Eternabond tape? That stuff seems to work well.
     
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  4. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    Yes. There was a white putty along the edges of the duct tape. The putty was very pliable considering its age but it was sloppily applied. It seems that there must be a better material to use than duct tape.
     
  5. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    I have read a lot about the use of eternabond tape. I checked locally and found it only in large quantities, 80 dollars worth. I'll check the Internet to see if I can find a couple of feet. Yes, I'm cheap.
     
  6. wayoutwest

    wayoutwest Member

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    I used this under my corner caps when I rebuilt my sideboards. Then butyl tape to help seal the screws, followed by lap sealant to finish it off.

    I hit Ebay for a small roll, think it was 3" or 4" wide by ? feet long
     
  7. Dingit

    Dingit Well-Known Member

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    Amazon also carries the smaller rolls.
     
  8. emoney

    emoney Well-Known Member

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    I mean, it needs to be said....nothing replaces duct tape and nobody puts duct tape in the corner.

    I had to......
     
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  9. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

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    Yep , Eternabond to cover the large gap , butyl tape under the corner cap to seal the edges then caulk around the edges once the caps are on .
     
  10. landon6062

    landon6062 Active Member

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    HI Undara.. welcome to the portal...

    I am assuming you still have the cap?

    May I make a suggestion to try??

    I don't see WHY plumbers putty wouldn't work for that corner to fill it in? (there is a Spray foam and a putty type)

    Then put the Eternabond tape on, put CAP back on, if you have it? and seal it with "lap sealant / dicor"

    That is most likely what I would try.

    donna
     
  11. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    Yes, I have the caps. I like the idea of a spray foam but I think it would need to be a type that will not melt the Styrofoam exposed in the hole. It seems that the engineer was using the duct tape as sort of an inside wall for the cap area and I don't see why putty was not used originally to fill the hole.
     
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  12. landon6062

    landon6062 Active Member

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    Well I was THINKING?? that the Plumblers putty/foam could hold up to the HEAT, it is made to go around HOT WATER pipes..


    I HAVE: TITE FOAM by Locitite, you might check into it?

    On the container it says:

    It is resistant to the elements without becoming brittle, and bonds to MOST materials.

    .. Can be used in attics, and they can get REALLY hot.
     
  13. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    The caps are large, almost have the width of the trailer. Although I have never seen butyl tape, I think it was originally used to seal / secure the bottom edge of the cap. Sheet metal screws were use on the sides and on a portion of the top edge. The balance of the top edge was caulked from the outside. This created a situation, in my opinion, where water could enter the top edge if the caulk failed and became trapped inside by the superior butyl rubber seal at the bottom edge. I was thinking of maybe leaving the bottom of the cap unsealed so water can easily exit if it gets by the caulk at the top. Maybe a few cut squares of tape instead of a strip all across the bottom. What do you think?
     
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  14. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    Thank you. I'll check it out at the hardware store.
     
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  15. landon6062

    landon6062 Active Member

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    You are very welcome..

    If you try it and it works for you, please let us know someone else may need the help later

    Happy camping donna : )
     
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  16. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Un-Supported Member

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    Plumbers Putty? Maybe I do not understand the application. PP is usually used under metal sink drains, is non-hardening, does not "adhere", and has no structural integrity.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. landon6062

    landon6062 Active Member

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    Wrkrbee, you may be correct...

    Perhaps, Plumbers putty may not be useful for this application
    .. at the time of the suggestion I was thinking of the FLEXIBILITY that the joint may need.. (more of a modeling clay type, filler was the word I was looking for there.. lol)



    I suggested it because it doesn't harden actually.. IF the corner moves a great deal most "anything" will crack or deteriorate over time with movement, even the Spray foam, will detach itself. But with the Eternabond tape and the Cap it was seemingly a Positive solution???....

    We actually used Plumbers putty in a "small hole" up near our A/C in the PUP, where it seems as though the PO, tried to use a screw to attach the A/C unit, in the wrong place.... thank goodness the hole was not through the roof...

    We used the putty because it had the ability to be more flexible in that situation.... yeah and there was a LOT of stuffing it in.. LOL...but overall it did a good job...

    The hole is a smaller than it appears to be in the picture...

    20180709_082931.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2018
  18. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

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  19. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    That's why there's a [DUCT] emoji on here, lol!
     
  20. undara12

    undara12 Member

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    The spray foam looks good on paper but I have not been able to verify that it will not react with Styrofoam. I'll try to call the manufacturer next week. I may not be able to do it, but I think I'll try to make the roof water tight without the caps and then hang the caps on for UV protection and aesthetics. Not using the butyl rubber tape would mean I could easily take the caps off at any time by removing the sheet metal screws. I would have to re-caulk but according to Geocel old product can be reactivated with new product so I would not have to clean off old caulk. If I don't use butyl rubber tape, maybe there is another double sided tape that can provide just enough grip to hold the cap at the bottom but not be a hassle to remove. I found a small quantity of Eternabond RV tape on Walmart.com.
     
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