Replacing ripped out storage box in 1982 Palomino Shetland to fix door problem.

Discussion in 'Camper Restoration Projects' started by TRACY GROMER, Jul 17, 2018.

  1. TRACY GROMER

    TRACY GROMER Member

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    In case anyone else wants to do this. I had to do it to get the door to fit/shut in my trailer. Someone had removed the original storage box between the trailer door and the front bunk/wall. Apparently it was structural and removal allowed the wall with the doorway in it to fall open/spread/gap at the top when the bunks were pulled out, so that the roof was too low and and the doorway was too wide -- I could not get the top of the door into the frame and the lower door would not shut. So here's what I did and it seems to have worked when everything else failed, including jacking up the roof, jacking up the bunk, etc. The walls needed to be brought together and re-installing the storage box was the only fix I could think of.

    Here's the fix for anyone having a problem with the door frame spreading and the door popping open after you pull out the bunk or get into the bunk at night:

    1. Buy a large ratcheting strap -- mine is 30ft and cost $20 at Home Depot. Close the door and put the strap all around the trailer at the top of the trailer box. Ratchet it tight until the door closes properly. See the bright green strap in the photo. Closed about a 1+ inch gap in the door frame. [​IMG]
    Close up of the mechanism.
    [​IMG]

    2. If you need extra support, and I think I did, you might consider adding a strip under the exterior frame. My OSB base had some damage under the door frame -- looks like the aluminum flashing got bent and allowed water in. And I wanted more support for the walls/frame around the door, so I installed a 1x2 because it fit perfectly. Once I get it painted and caulked in, no one will ever notice it. Hard wood would have been better, but pine is what I had, so that's what I used.

    [​IMG]

    3. Re-build that box. Mine isn't pretty, because I was using salvaged lumber of random types and sizes -- using what I had and trying to recycle. I may paint the framing, just so it looks better. I also used some metal supports and as many angle braces as I could fit in there -- I want this to work and I don't want to do it again later. That baby is solid. I've got some leftover 3/16" cedar board that I'm going to use for skin. Will make a lift-open top and will at least have extra storage, so I won't miss the floor space as much.

    [​IMG]

    4. Fingers crossed. I have not yet unclamped the strap, but the door, which previously had ZERO hope of going into the frame will now fit in the frame. And that was the goal. If this had not worked, I would probably be selling this trailer. So, I hope that this stays in shape when the strap is removed -- saved the entire trailer for me if it does. And I hope that this post will help someone else with the same problem. Happy camping!!!
     
  2. emoney

    emoney Well-Known Member

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    Can’t see your pics? Maybe it’s becsuse I’m using my phone.
     
  3. TRACY GROMER

    TRACY GROMER Member

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    Don't know -- they show up when I look at the page.
     
  4. TRACY GROMER

    TRACY GROMER Member

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    Just to update, this fix did work and I was able to install and use my door just fine once I rebuilt the box. I'll try to upload some pictures of the box as completed. It looks pretty nice actually. And I added a second "lid" inside the box to hold an extra, smaller-sized table top for the dinette. See photos.
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. TRACY GROMER

    TRACY GROMER Member

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    Cannot remember how I got photos into the text. Will try again. 20180911_070947.jpg
    Here we go!
    20180911_071603.jpg
    20180911_072355.jpg
     
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  6. DJS12354

    DJS12354 Well-Known Member

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    Very nice work!
     
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  7. ST Dog

    ST Dog Member

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    Interesting. Sounds like the problem I have with my larger Pal.

    But it didn't have a box removed. It came with toilet and shower in that area.
    But the frame for those isn't as strong as that box.
    I removed them and closed it up, but didn't think to use a strap outside first.

    When I get a clear weekend I think I'll try a strap and redoing that area.
    Oh, and add something under that side of the frame. Thinking a 1/8"-3/16" steel T bar would be great.

    Ho did you attach the wood? Just screwed to the floor?
     
  8. TRACY GROMER

    TRACY GROMER Member

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    Yes, I just screwed up into the sub floor, being careful not to pierce the interior flooring. A strong metal would definitely be better than the pine I used. Good luck.
     

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