Replacing thermostat

Discussion in 'A-Frame PopUps' started by SacramentoAliner, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. SacramentoAliner

    SacramentoAliner New Member

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    Hi everyone! I just bought an Aliner LXE and plan to primarily use the seating area in the bed configuration, but this puts the thermostat under the bed and inaccessible. Has anyone found a solution to this? I was thinking maybe a remote control thermostat? Or moving the thermostat? Anyone done this and have tips? I primarily want the thermostat for the heater...I think we're actually going to remove the AC as we're unlikely to use this in a location that we can plug in.
     
  2. generok

    generok Well-Known Member

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    You can add a length of wire to the t-stat and mount it anywhere you want. That saves the expense of a remote t-stat. If you have a 4-wire stat, but you don't plan to use the A/C you only need to run a two-wire pair to the heat side of the t-stat.
     
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  3. kitphantom

    kitphantom Well-Known Member

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    We changed out to digital, heat only, thermostats in both our popup and TT. The original one in the popup was 4" above the floor, under the table, which led to huge temperature swings. We put in a 90* plug and a long wire, so we could use the thermostat on the counter. We only plugged it in when we were going to use the furnace.
    I can't find the photo of the thermostat hung on this metal shelving unit. We mounted the thermostat on a small piece of wood, and put tiny cup hooks on the top so it would hang from the shelf.
    The Lux, heat only, with a momentary back light is the thermostat we've preferred. The first one we put in the TT didn't have the light (we forgot to check when we bought it) and it was a pain to see in the location in the TT. After a while of grabbing a flashloght to set the temp, we changed that to the Lux.
     

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  4. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    I assume you have the Cool Cat (AC and heat) unit, which I am not familiar with. Our Cool Cube (AC only) thermostat is at the unit and senses the return air temperature in the storage area. The control, by the door, displays this temperature. It is a terrible setup, since the Scout return air and discharge ducts, are under the bed. Is this the way the LXE unit works?
     
  5. SacramentoAliner

    SacramentoAliner New Member

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    Thanks! I'll try to find that thermostat!
     
  6. SacramentoAliner

    SacramentoAliner New Member

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    No - we have a furnace for a heater and a window AC unit with a thermostat on the floor...which is completely buried once we set the bed up
     
  7. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Typical mindless design. The people "designing" campers must not camp in them.
     
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  8. slcCamper

    slcCamper New Member

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    Unfortunately, it is all about Units per hour now. And most people only seem to make decisions on lowest cost. That is the main reason I bought a used unit as I knew I was going to go in and fix/modify all the things I didn't like.
     
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  9. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    I have a question on changing to a digital thermostat. I thought I had this figured out before I started. The same as a lot of you, my old thermostat is located at floor level on the opposite side of the camper. I want to move it to the cabinet between the fridge and sink (close to the furnace itself).

    First thing I did was disconnected the quick connect to the old thermostat and traced the wires with my meter to make sure I was working with the right wires at the furnace. Then I connected a speaker wire to the digital thermostat (one that came out of my house when I switched to a Nest thermostat - it is a heat and cool model). At first, I connected to the B and W terminals. I touched the wires from the thermostat to the quick connector terminals - furnace didn't start up. Then I did a little research and decided to switch from the B to the G terminal. Tried again and the furnace fired up!.

    Next, I moved to the furnace and used a quick splice to join my speaker wire to the furnace wire in the cabinet beside the furnace. I turned on the thermostat switch and got nothing! So I then cut the speaker wires and spliced them in AFTER the splices where the wiring harness was joined to the furnace wires at the factory - turned on the thermostat switch and got nothing! I cut the speaker wires again and installed connectors to the ends, disconnected the furnace wires and plugged the thermostat directly into the OFF/Reset switch and the ? switch or sensor on the furnace - got nothing.

    The last thing I tried was the original setup - touched the wires to the inside of the original thermostat quick connector - the furnace fired up! I went back and removed all of the splice connectors I had installed and hooked the original thermostat back up and threw in the towel!

    Any ideas? I thought as long as I spliced into the 2 wires going to the furnace (even if they were reversed), it would work.
     
  10. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Is the old thermostat an in-line type? A picture of both of the thermostats connection strip would help.
     
  11. Halford

    Halford Well-Known Member

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    wishful thought: replacing old thermostat with Nest Thermostat
     
  12. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    This is what I have [​IMG]

    I'll take a pic of the terminal markings on the one I was going to replace it with when I get home from work. I bought mine when Duke Power was giving a $100 off when you bought it through them.

    Awe man - I love mine! Saved me $10-20/mo during the summer too!
     
  13. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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  14. emoney

    emoney Well-Known Member

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    Out of curiosity, why the splices? Were it me, I'd get the length of wire I need, and connect it outside of the
    'run' to make sure it works. If it does, then unhook, feed the wires wherever they need to go and then reconnect.
    Some times, the splice can be the issue. What looks like a good connection isn't necessarily so.
     
  15. tenttrailer

    tenttrailer Art & Joyce - Columbus, O

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    I search around and found a digital Honeywell stat that was for heat only. No AC. Only switchs was on off and up and down temp. None programable. There were two models of the stat a horizanal and vertical foot print.

    I think all stats have the same issue. They are mounted to a wall that is cold. Until after some time it's warmed up. Until the wall is warmed up the room air is warmer than you want to compensate for the cold wall behind the stat. I have found it takes an hour or so to warm the wall.
     
  16. emoney

    emoney Well-Known Member

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    I’m no HVAC expert but I’d venture to guess that in a camper, especially a pup the “wall temp” probably doesn’t have a lot of bearing on comfort. Matter of fact I’d go so far as to say if nothing else, the “walls/cabinets” in a pup are the warmest parts especially when mounted anywhere other than an outside wall.
     
  17. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Yeah, I saw that (and a few other posts). From what I can tell, there is a large temp swing before the furnace kicks back on. While I had mine running yesterday to burn the dust off it, I noticed that it would get pretty toasty inside before it shut off, then get rather cool before it started back up. After playing around with it for a while, I found a happy medium and left it there. Hopefully that will work this weekend too. I guess it's just the nature of the beast - cheap thermometer is only functional.

    The "factory" connection to the furnace wires were the quick splices - so I figured that was good enough.

    That's my problem - I connected it at the end of the run (disconnected the old thermostat and touched the wires to the inside of the quick connector - the furnace started as it should). I figured I was good to go with the "new" thermostat, so I traced the wires back to where they connected to the furnace and spliced into the wires there - furnace fan didn't even come on. I didn't even think that the splice might be the problem.

    I figured I would save a few bucks and use the one I had on hand. I found a few online at a decent price which I might order if we use the camper again this winter (we are going camping this weekend if the weather holds out). Even though it has the AC function and is programmable, it DID start the furnace up when connected to the quick connector that the original thermostat plugged into. I was wanting to get the thermostat up off the floor (at close to bunk height) and away from the slideout where I know there is a draft. I also had a wire long enough to move it around until I found the best location before I did a more permanent mount.

    That's what I was thinking also - and especially away from the drafty slideout.
     
  18. tenttrailer

    tenttrailer Art & Joyce - Columbus, O

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    The issue with the wall temp, is that's where the stat is mounted. The wall cools the air in the stat. That's the reason thermostats in houses are almost always on an inside wall. They don't want them mounted on a hot or cold outside wall.
     
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  19. Katskamper

    Katskamper Active Member

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    im reading all this because my heater did not come on & the insides of the white stat pictured above are rusty/crusty.
    i dont think the heater has rver been used!
     
  20. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Sounds like it to me too! Will yours come on by shorting the 2 thermostat wires together? If it hasn't been used, be prepared for a lot of dust burning off of the furnace. Mine was "supposedly" used a lot during winter hunting trips up until I bought it earlier this year. When I fired it up last week, I could smell the dust burning for about half an hour and it made some weird noises, but after I ran it awhile it was fairly quiet.

    Unfortunately, I am probably going to cancel my trip this weekend (that I was preparing for last week) because of a large chance of rain on Saturday and decent chance the other 2 days! Maybe I'll be able to go another weekend this winter.
     

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