roof rebuild help


New Member
Oct 10, 2012
Hello all
After a litle closer look at the roof on our N2U 1982 Palimino. I discoverd that not only are the side boards of the roof bad(which I knew when we bought it)
But the metal on top has bad spots along the edge that allowed water to rot out the roof frame.
So i have decided to rebuild the entire roof rather than just do the sides.
My plan is to use 1x4 poplar for roof top frame, with 1x4 s running 2' on center,
width ways, laminated to 3/8' luan on top and FRP on the interior side. I will fill the gap between the 1x4s with 3/4" foam core construction sheeting
Then use 1x6 for the sides of the roof ,screwed ,glued and stapled.
I am going frame a 14x14 opening in the center for a fantastic roof vent.

Not sure what to use for the roof top. The current metal is not usable so was thinking maybe epdm rubber roof membran ewrapped over front and back ends ,glued to deck, and new sheet aluminum on the sides.
Questions I have is;
1. Will this be to heavy of a roof for the palimino lift arsm?
2. What are your thoughts about a rubber roof on a popup?
3. If the rubber membrane is cost prohibitive what else can i use?
4. The current roof is domed front to back but I am planning on building the new one pretty much flat. Any issues here?
5. Have I missed anything?
Any advice is great


Jul 19, 2012
i can only help with a couple of your questions. in regards to the weight, i do not know what your current roof weighs or what the new one will but if you find the manual for the trailer (can typically get one online, on this site) it will likely tell you how much extra weight the roof can support. i believe my starcraft can handle 160 additional lbs on the roof. so then all you have to do is think if your new roof could be that much heavier... for me, no the new roof would not be 160lbs MORE than the old roof was and would still fall under the weight rating.

in regards to the dome. i would close it as much as possible while still able to see inside, you may need the clearance of the dome to clear your sink or something???

and last, a bit of (perhaps unwanted) advice: anywhere that stregth counts i would use plywood instead of dimensional lumber. you said that you were going to use 1x6 for the sides... if your arms mount to the sides all it would take is a good gust of wind to shift the roof and snap that dimensional lumber right along the grain. plywood is a lot stronger in that application. there are multiple ways to get the length that you need out of plywood (all invovle glueing). some more complicated and require specialty tools (mostly a router) and some more simple that only require something heavy and some glue (1/4" plywood cut as an 8' section and 4' section glued to a 4' section and an 8' section (assuming 12' roof) so that the seams dont line up. put weights on it over night then trim to size once dry.


Super Active Member
Sep 3, 2012
You'll want a little bit of pitch to the roof to let water run off. as far as the rubber goes, don't see why not. They use it on TTs and MHs.


New Member
Oct 10, 2012
Good point on the plywood. Hadnt thought of that. And it has the standard old palimino exterior lift arms and they do bolt to the side wall.
Thanks for the input.
What other option can i use othrr than the rubber if its too much $$$?


New Member
Aug 24, 2013
I just put an epdm roof on my pup today. when i started taking off the old metal skin I just didn't feel right putting it back after all the work I was putting into the thing. It has a few air pockets here and there since I should have done it with a helper but all in all in turned out great and I don't have to worry as much about leaks. The only thing I wish I had done different was wrap the entire top in it instead of just from front to back!