Roof Side Boards - Where to start?

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by TDS-MN, Jun 30, 2014.

  1. TDS-MN

    TDS-MN Active Member

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    Hey All,

    Finally got the old Jayco opened up for the year, and found some water leakage at the rear corner. Much of my rear roof and some of the side boards are wet, where the canvas attaches. I have seen several topics on board where people have removed the entire roof assembly and re-built it with new wood. I am curious how a person starts that task, and how do you determine what you need to cut the new side boards to match? I have some decent wood-working skills and equipment, but are there drawings or templates available for a job like this, or is it just a matter of dis-assembly and cutting something to match what was removed?

    my concern is that you may not end up with something that gives accurate enough shape/dimension if basing everything on a rotted piece of wood.

    Not sure if this is a project that is for me or not, just exploring options and trying to learn right now. I can re-do the sealing gasket, but knowing that I have some wood rot and softness in there might be something that I want to remedy some day soon.

    Would appreciate any wisdom or experience someone who's been thru it can share. Thanks!
     
  2. moorecomp

    moorecomp And so it begins.

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    On my StarCraft, the sideboards were a sandwich of OSB covered on both sides with aluminium skins. I was able to peel the skins off and use them as a template.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
     
  3. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Listen, before you get too invested in trying to re-manufacture sideboards, contact a local Jayco dealer or the Jayco customer service at the factory and find out what new sideboards (and possibly the corner caps) will cost.

    You don't necessarily need to farm out the labor as it's not that complicated, just get the materials or have the dealer put a "kit" together including everything you'll need to do the job yourself.

    I've read several by members who have either taken their camper directly to the factory to have them replace the sideboards or just ordered replacements and done the work themselves.

    If your time is worth anything, I'd consider this option over trying to build new ones.
     
  4. TDS-MN

    TDS-MN Active Member

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    Interesting, I would not have thought that they were something that I could just purchase, even thru a dealer. I do like that idea if it is indeed an option. I feel I would have the skill to re-do what needs fixing, but was concerned about obtaining the parts to do so.

    On our Jayco, the outer roof skin is aluminum of course, but the side boards, which appear to be plywood, or else very weathered solid boards, are exposed on the 'canvas' side.

    I can feel that the rear of the side board is still damp, as well as part of the rear board. Granted that we have had excessive amounts of heavy rainfall here in MN this year, but I think that if these boards were in better shape, the whole roof seal would perform better when closed up. My center seam is well sealed, but the trim at the bottom edge of the roof back in this area, looks a little suspect. I know it doesn't take much for water to find it's way in.

    Thanks for the replies!
     
  5. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Whatever you decide, be sure to go easy when putting butyl tape on the roof edge trim so it doesn't squish out over time or it'll force out your carefully applied caulking year after year after year. (Ask me how I know).

    BTW, I despise re-caulking every year or two, so I used Marine Goop sealant to seal everything on my roof after spraying the whole thing with bedliner. It's on season number two and still looks like it did the day I put it on. I had to make one or two minor touch-ups but the great thing is that they don't show.

    Marine Goop comes in a caulking tube (about $14 a tube) at any Marine dealer or most anywhere that has a marine or boating section and a little goes a long way so there's no need to go nuts squirting big nasty globs of it everywhere. One tube should be enough to do your entire roof.

    It's UV resistant, dries opaque (almost clear), self-levelling, won't crack, turn black and sticks like poop to a wool blankie. Start with a clean surface and apply in thin layers if you need a large bead. Tools well with a wet finger and if it hasn't cured, you can wipe, rub or trim off any excess quite easily. Great stuff.

    I used it on my Roof vent, bottom trim, corner caps, roof edge trim, roof latches and behind every screw head.
     
  6. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    I did this on our 2004 Rockwood when I bought it damaged from a tree. In the process of installing the parts roof from a parts camper (a 96, but same roof), I found the side boards rotted. I did the same as was mentioned before, and used it as a template. You can use the outer vinyl or aluminum skin, or if the board comes off in savable pieces, that'd work too. When you look how the roof mounts to the lift posts, there is a lot of tolerance there, though you should match the piece that came off.

    When you re-assemble, be sure to use not only butyl tape (all that the factory uses in many cases), and then caulk the outer seam.

    I doubt you will find just the side board from the dealer, in fact even the roof can sometimes be a hard thing to find/buy, if they have changed the dimensions even slightly.

    If you have wet wood and softness in that corner, it will continue to rot the roof until it is dried out.

    Good Luck!
     

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