Sagging ABS Roof Repair with Photos & How to tips

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by Miss Karla, Aug 9, 2018.

  1. CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck Member

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    So, that about covers it.

    I take note that I didn't take any pictures of the completed installation last year :(
    Guess I'll have to do that when I take the trailer out next time.

    Also, I bought a bunch of the spring-loaded nuts that slide into the channels. These are available in several thread / bolt sizes. I installed a bunch of eye-bolts into these. Some eye-bolts I pried open on the vise. I used these to hang curtains, string a clothesline, hang up "Other Stuff" etc.
    I found this to be ideal for us and will add a few more this season.

    All in all, I'm very pleased. The roof has minimal sag (though it didn't have a huge amount to start with) and I'm much more confident in its' inherent stability. I do have the factory Yakima rack with 3 bars, so this "mod" should help out in that respect as well.

    Am I looking for a Tracker / Samurai to drive up onto the roof now? Not likely... :)

    P1160688s.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2019
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  2. MIJohansens

    MIJohansens New Member

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    Miss Karla- I sent a message :) Hoping you may still have the measurements since we have the same year and model. Thank you so much for this thread.
     
  3. CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck Member

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    MIJ- the SunValley is basically identical to my SunRidge. except the layout is flipped front to back and you don't have a front storage box. So the dims I showed / method should be identical for you. You have to measure your own trailer, as the roofs are slightly different. Not much, but IMO enough to make a difference.

    FWIW- I had a straight (flat) 36.0" center section between the 2 kinks in the roof. Then I had a 23.25" outboard section but you have to measure it and then mock up the curved section to the beauty covers.

    That was also part of the reason I posted on MissKarla's thread instead of starting another one.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2019
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  4. mstrbill

    mstrbill Active Member

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    Miss Karla hasn't been seen here since Oct of last year, I won't expect an answer.
     
  5. MIJohansens

    MIJohansens New Member

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    She has been very helpful! It was worth the try because she messaged back right away
     
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  6. brdeel

    brdeel Member

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    Thanks for the details, pictures, and off-line info. I'm going to start gathering what I need. It has to be done before Memorial Day so I can still put the door in and latch it!
     
  7. brdeel

    brdeel Member

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    That's a great idea to allow the roof to bend back slowly. I can also run my shop heater at first to soften the ABS.
     
  8. brdeel

    brdeel Member

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    *** I can't figure out how to delete this post. I found your answer further down so disregard this one.
    Did you find a way to to attach the struts to the bent over lips vs. the beauty plates? It does seem that attaching it to the beauty plates screwed into ABS is sketchy, though it seems like that is what most are doing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2019
  9. brdeel

    brdeel Member

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    Ahh-ha. Here's the answer to my previous question I'll try to find and delete. Glad to know about the beauty plate flap that screws into the lifter struts. Thanks!
     
  10. AlexVanEks

    AlexVanEks Member

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    I've got to admit, those are some downright wicked nice supports! They make not be too aesthetic but I definitely would consider then for reinforcement if I needed it for a roof.
     
  11. Bethany04

    Bethany04 New Member

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    I am so happy to have found this thread! We have been dancing around this "sag" fix and re-coating our roof for months! All of our ABS is gone so we will be using Grizzly Grip to replace that. One question that has come up though is do we need to heat the fiberglass foam before we add interior supports? And do we need to fix the sag BEFORE we apply the Grizzly Grip?
    Thank you all so much for the details and pictures! This will be very helpful!
     
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  12. CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck Member

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    I have yet to prove / substantiate that there is any fiberglass in the Coleman ABS Roof. I have stated my assumptions in a number of posts on this site.

    I jacked up my roof in very warm weather and left it resting on the wooden beams. It took out a bit of the sag. I also think that our 97 SunRidge had one of the "Straight Roofs", without the fore-aft crown. So, even after I installed the Superstruts, the roof still has a slight fore-aft sag. The two fore-aft struts are pretty much snug to the inside ABS. But the best thing is that it is rock solid. The ABS delam and the tears have not progressed since I've done the struts, so I'm quite happy. Haven't done the Grizzly Grip yet as there's still no real requirement to do so.

    Our trailer is stored outside. Due to the crossbars for the roof racks, I do not cover it. Presently there's a bit of snow on it, though I do sweep what I can off to keep the weight in check.
     
  13. Orchid

    Orchid Sharp Shootin' Grandma

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    Our roof appears to have a little sag from the outside, but it perfectly arched on the inside. We do have a rooftop a/c unit. Even though it appears to have a little sag on the exterior, it doesn't collect water so we never worried about it. We did Grizzly Grip it as is, over top some Eternabond tape that was on some cracks.

    The roof is not pretty, but I don't care. I only care about function and the interior. It's been a great camper for many years. We only paid $1,500 for it and have gotten our moneys worth many times over. I really don't worry about too much with making everything perfect. As long as I keep the tires safe, the roof works, and the interior is comfortable, I'm good.
     
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  14. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    There isn't anything but rigid foam core inside a Fleetwood ABS Strata roof. Here's a pic of my own 2000 Santa Fe's roof after I cut 2 holes in it so I could install A/C.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck Member

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    Thanks G.Fox. So that proves my thoughts that there is no fiberglass ABS in there. Simply two ABS shells in a mold with (most likely) polyurethane foam injected in between to make the "Sandwich".
     
  16. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    I swear mine had a fiberglass coating inside. Lol. They did have 2 manufactures of the roofs( different time periods i think). And i still dont know why some delaminate and some do. I tryed to gather info as to weight on top( ac or not) , climate of where its stored ( warm vs cold) sag support bars and or size and find no reasons other then some do and some dont. Hope yours holds up, good luck!
     
  17. brdeel

    brdeel Member

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    Has anyone who's made this repair with unistrut/superstrut and used their camper several times after had any problem with extra weight/strain on the lift system? I'm wondering if it's harder to crank, there's brake slippage, or cables have broken. I bought my 4 bars of unistrut and it will certainly add weight. Even the connecters are weighty.
     
  18. CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck Member

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    I did my repair with unistrut, back in Sept 2018. We have the large roof on our SunRidge. We had it to Oregon (I'm in the Okanagan, BC) and back, through the interior of BC in 2018 fall. Then out again in late summer & fall of 2019. No issues.
    Didn't do anything last year and this year 'till now. Not seeing any more new cracking, though can't be sure re. very minor ones.

    Yes, there is a bit more effort required cranking it up, but, if you're cables and wiffle tree are in good shape and greased where required, I would think you should be OK. Lowereing the rood is a bit easier now, lol.
     
  19. erincel

    erincel New Member

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    Amazing!
    Every time I see this post, I know this is how I’ll need to fix my sagging roof. It’s an amazing fix, I just wish the last photo with the computer mock up was clearer to use as a template for angles and cuts! Any chance you still have it laying around and can upload a new photo?
     
  20. Erin Saporito

    Erin Saporito New Member

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    We just bought our 2000 Coleman fleetwood Cheyenne and noticed the roof is starting to bow a bit. I love this idea of using unistrut but we don’t weld or have metal cutting tools. Has anyone on here had luck with using the Colemanpopupparts.com metal bracing kit instead??
     

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