FYI - Looks like some of their models are on sale right now on Amazon. This one is smaller, but a good deal: https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ
That is VERY good deal.FYI - Looks like some of their models are on sale right now on Amazon. This one is smaller, but a good deal: https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ
I am not at all familiar with this type of device, so let me ask a question about a possible application.FYI - Looks like some of their models are on sale right now on Amazon. This one is smaller, but a good deal: https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ
I don't believe that is possible other than using the Jackery in tandem with the Jackery charging cables to give your truck battery a boost.How would I connect the Jackery to my truck's 12v system to run the LED lights?
You could use the Jackery AC port to directly run your laptop. Many people use them that way.plus whatever the laptop recharge use through the Inverter
Lights: 0.9A + 0.5A = 1.4A x 6hrs = 8.4Ah x 14.4V = 121WhIn my 14' work box van, I am parked at a work site all day (12-14 hours). I have been considering getting an Inverter to re-charge my (aging) laptop battery. I already converted interior lights to LED, but plan to add three more LED fixtures for better light [ (3 x .5 amp) + ( 1 x .9 amp existing LED 8" round light) ... so ≈ 2.4 amp hour draw max ]. I probably actually use just .9a + .5a mostly when inside the truck, which may be 4-6 hours of the 'day'. [1.4 ah x 6 hrs = ≈ 9 amps. plus whatever the laptop recharge use through the Inverter.
Can you add your new lights on a new circuit that terminates in a 12V male plug, and then just plug this into the 12V female receptacle on the Jackery? You could also install a 12V female receptacle in the van if you did want to plug the lights into the van itself at times.How would I connect the Jackery to my truck's 12v system to run the LED lights? I wonder how much the Jackery would drain down when connected to the truck 12v system, assuming the truck battery was at max charge that the alternator could charge to after a one hour commute?
This morning 5/20/21 the sale on the 240 was gone. The price was back at $199 for the Jackery 240. I set price watches in Amazon's camelcamelcamel.com so I will get an email if the 240 drops below $170, or the 500 drops below $455.FYI - Looks like some of their models are on sale right now on Amazon. This one is smaller, but a good deal: https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ
Yes, Jackery has protected their products well with regulators. Carport output is 12V, 10A. The Jackery will shut down if the watt draw is too great.In his review BikeNFish used a set of Jackery jumper cables to charge his trailer battery. I had a quick look and couldn't find any technical info online regarding the 12V outlet, but I assume it is a regulated current limiting output.
I would still consider placing your lights and fan on an independent circuit and plugging only those loads into the Jackery via the 12V receptacle (carport/cigarette lighter plug).
Bluetti also has a great reputation. I was looking at those before I bought the Jackery.Just got the Bluetti 500wh model power station (the AC50s) since the old pop-up doesn't have an electrical system.
TSQ,Just keep in mind the Jackery 240 is only 240Wh / 13.2V (typical for lithium) = 18Ah x 80% = roughly 14.5Ah usable when comparing it to a lead acid battery.
In his review BikeNFish used a set of Jackery jumper cables to charge his trailer battery. I had a quick look and couldn't find any technical info online regarding the 12V outlet, but I assume it is a regulated current limiting output. The manual does say it is 10A, so if you did choose to connect it to your vehicle battery 14AWG wire would be fine (with a 15A fuse at the vehicle battery).
Good idea to make all lights & fan on a separate circuit. That would make the Jackery like a 'house' battery separate from the starting battery. For this separate circuit, do you agree I could have a switch (not sure what kind??) to flip when I want to change to run off the starting battery (I would disconnect the Jackery when switched to 'starting' batt.). With this switching ability, I could use the source with the AH's I need available.I would still consider placing your lights and fan on an independent circuit and plugging only those loads into the Jackery via the 12V receptacle (carport/cigarette lighter plug). If you do regularly connect the Jackery to your vehicle battery while running lights and fans without any kind of monitoring and/or load disconnect you still risk discharging your vehicle starter battery (if the Jackery battery is depleted or disconnected), leaving you unable to start your vehicle (and possibly damaging the starter battery). Plus it is not as efficient.
Oh, I like this simple plan! I did not know cig plugs could handle 'charging current', but I guess 15amp (16 ga wire) or 20amps (14 ga wire) is OK for the actual connector. I see Amazon has 14ga Cig. connectors and adapters, so that is very cool!Either way, you could install a 12V receptacle (carport/cigarette lighter plug) near where you wish to place the Jackery (14AWG wire, 15A fuse).
If you want to charge the vehicle battery with the Jackery use a male-male connector between the Jackery 12V receptacle and the vehicle 12V receptacle.
If you wire the lights and fan on a separate circuit with a 12V plug you can plug them into either the Jackery 12V receptacle or the vehicle 12V receptacle, depending on your situation.
In addition, when driving, you could also use the vehicle 12V receptacle to charge the Jackery using the included DC charger.
I would still consider placing your lights and fan on an independent circuit and plugging only those loads into the Jackery via the 12V receptacle (carport/cigarette lighter plug). If you do regularly connect the Jackery to your vehicle battery while running lights and fans without any kind of monitoring and/or load disconnect you still risk discharging your vehicle starter battery (if the Jackery battery is depleted or disconnected), leaving you unable to start your vehicle (and possibly damaging the starter battery). Plus it is not as efficient.
Either way, you could install a 12V receptacle (carport/cigarette lighter plug) near where you wish to place the Jackery (14AWG wire, 15A fuse).
If you want to charge the vehicle battery with the Jackery use a male-male connector between the Jackery 12V receptacle and the vehicle 12V receptacle.
If you wire the lights and fan on a separate circuit with a 12V plug you can plug them into either the Jackery 12V receptacle or the vehicle 12V receptacle, depending on your situation.
In addition, when driving, you could also use the vehicle 12V receptacle to charge the Jackery using the included DC charger.
Yes, keeps them separate.Good idea to make all lights & fan on a separate circuit. That would make the Jackery like a 'house' battery separate from the starting battery.
You could have a switch, but I'd just keep it simpler and just plug it into the Jackery (or equivalent), or the vehicle. It depends on how much you want to spend. If you wanted to go the switch route you would need a SPDT (or DPDT) rated at 15A.For this separate circuit, do you agree I could have a switch (not sure what kind??) to flip when I want to change to run off the starting battery (I would disconnect the Jackery when switched to 'starting' batt.). With this switching ability, I could use the source with the AH's I need available.
The alternator will charge it to 100% SOC, assuming you've been driving for a little while.I believe even when the alternator charges the starting battery, it is really only at ≈ 80% SOC (state of charge).
Not really, the Jackery would continue to supply power until the starting battery is brought up to the output voltage of the Jackery. Note that you are not just connecting one battery to another - the 12V output on the Jackery will be driven by a DC-DC converter. The starting battery, being lead acid, will need to be driven up to 14.4V to fully charge and I doubt the 12V output on the Jackery is that high. Maybe BikeNFish could measure the 12V output voltage on his with no load on it.I assume that means if I DID connect the Jackery to a circuit the starting battery was also on, the Jackery would send current to it until it reached closer to 100% SOC(?).
If starting batt. rated at 45ah, 20% of that = 9ah of Jackery 240's ≈ 14.5ah...
Oh, Oh, But am I dreaming to think the below scenario is valid?:::
1) Arrive at site for the 12-14 hour day. Connect full Jackery 240 to truck's starting batt. circuit for as long as it takes to raise start batt. from ≈ 80% to as close as 100%SOC as Jackery will do. (does Jackery keep sending current or stop when it & start battery are 'equalized'?)
2) Take Jackery into building to recharge via 120v outlet
3) Now have both Jackery and starting battery near 100% SOC for my overnight camping adventure allowing me to run a fan 10 hours (speed #1 (.2a) to speed #10 (4.4a) with zero worries. [4.4ah x 10 hrs = 4.4 amps.]
Technically you want 14AWG for 15A and 12AWG for 20A.Oh, I like this simple plan! I did not know cig plugs could handle 'charging current', but I guess 15amp (16 ga wire) or 20amps (14 ga wire) is OK for the actual connector.
If you are trying to keep the costs down I'd wire something like this female 12V outlet to your vehicle battery. This will be your vehicle outlet.I see Amazon has 14ga Cig. connectors and adapters, so that is very cool!
Yes, keeps them separate.
You could have a switch, but I'd just keep it simpler and just plug it into the Jackery (or equivalent), or the vehicle. It depends on how much you want to spend. If you wanted to go the switch route you would need a SPDT (or DPDT) rated at 15A.
The alternator will charge it to 100% SOC, assuming you've been driving for a little while.
Not really, the Jackery would continue to supply power until the starting battery is brought up to the output voltage of the Jackery. Note that you are not just connecting one battery to another - the 12V output on the Jackery will be driven by a DC-DC converter. The starting battery, being lead acid, will need to be driven up to 14.4V to fully charge and I doubt the 12V output on the Jackery is that high. Maybe BikeNFish could measure the 12V output voltage on his with no load on it.
If you want more power I would recommend a larger Jackery, as opposed to trying to take some from your starter battery. Or use a solar panel as Steve suggested - that is a great idea.
Technically you want 14AWG for 15A and 12AWG for 20A.
I like the simplicity here. Thank you for the example links. I think I many have a Perko battery selector in my garage somewhere that I never got around to using on my boat. I believe it was #1, #2, Both, Neither. But even so, it might be simpler with just the above plugs. Would I use the same connection pattern for these three purposes?: 1) Charge Jackey when driving truck; 2) Charge truck batt. with Jackery; 3) If I got a Jackery 60w solar panel, would I plug it into the Jackey (while connected as in 1) & 2) and the solar panel would charge both the Jackery and starter batt. (s-l-o-w-l-y)? Would more current flow to the lower voltage battery* or equally?If you are trying to keep the costs down I'd wire something like this female 12V outlet to your vehicle battery. This will be your vehicle outlet.
Wire your lights and fans to something like this male 12V plug
To run the lights and fan off your Jackery, plug it into the Jackery. To run them off the vehicle, just plug it into the vehicle outlet.
* I just had a flash of memory from my high school electronics class teacher: "Electricity is like a lazy teenager... It takes the easiest path!" (lower voltage battery in this case I'd guess. ;o)
Thanks again TSQ for your generous help. And also thanks to SteveP!If you did want the ability to charge the vehicle battery from the Jackery pick up something like this 12V male-male cable and plug one end into the Jackery and the other into the vehicle outlet.
While driving, use the DC charger that is included with the Jackery to charge the Jackery from the vehicle outlet. Don't forget to unplug it when you stop, or use a low voltage disconnect as Steve suggested.
Note that I just picked those Amazon items as examples, there are many different ones available.
The Jackery (and similar lithium units) have separate ~12V DC inputs and outputs so the connections would be different. The inputs tend to be 8mm barrel jacks while the outputs tend to be the standard 12V carport / cigarette lighter type plugs. Generally speaking, they will not output anything from the inputs, nor will they input anything on the outputs (except on special bi-directional connections like USB-C).Would I use the same connection pattern for these three purposes?
You would use the DC charger that is included with the Jackery that looks like this:1) Charge Jackey when driving truck
You would use a male-male cable like I linked to earlier.2) Charge truck batt. with Jackery
The solar panel would plug into the Jackery input using a barrel connector. This would charge the Jackery.3) If I got a Jackery 60w solar panel, would I plug it into the Jackey (while connected as in 1) & 2) and the solar panel would charge both the Jackery and starter batt. (s-l-o-w-l-y)? Would more current flow to the lower voltage battery* or equally?
* I just had a flash of memory from my high school electronics class teacher: "Electricity is like a lazy teenager... It takes the easiest path!" (lower voltage battery in this case I'd guess. ;o)
WHAAAA?? Harbor Freight????they are now listing Harbor Freight