Set Up/Tear Down Checklist

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
Being new and having to battle setting up and tearing down a few times now, I took some advice and created the following checklist for my 1995 Jayco 1206 KB:

Set Up
1. Park camper on level ground
2. Chock wheels
3. Disconnect camper power ONLY – LEAVE THE CHAINS CONNECTED in case the camper moves
4. Unlock the hitch and raise camper to disconnect from ball
5. Lock the hitch
6. Disconnect the chains and move the towing vehicle
7. Level the camper
8. Unlatch the 4 locks holding the camper top down
9. Crank up the top
10. Attach all four supports for the King bed
11. Slide out the King bed and secure the supports
12. Attach the supports for the Queen bed
13. Slide out the Queen bed and secure the supports
14. Lower the door then raise or lower the camper top to properly fit the door into the frame
15. Secure the door and attach the canvas to the door
16. Raise and lock the bed frames
17. Raise the sink
18. Mount the cabinet above the sink
19. Tuck in the canvas below the bed frames
20. Connect the power cord to Shore Power
21. Turn on the circuit breakers and the water pump if needed
22. Turn on gas at the tanks and light the refrigerator and the water heater if needed

Tear Down
1. Turn off gas to all appliances and then at the tanks
2. Disconnect the power cord from Shore Power and stow it
3. Turn off the circuit breakers and the water pump switch
4. Lower the cabinet above sink and stow the sink
5. Raise and lock the door
6. Stow all pillows, tables, and everything above waist height
7. Place the shower curtain on the King bed
8. Disconnect the canvas from the bed frames and wipe it off if dirty
9. Remove the supports from the King bed and push it all the way in. Stow the supports under the mattress
10. Remove the supports from the Queen bed and push it all the way in. Stow the supports under the mattress
11. Lower the top but pause periodically to push the canvas in
12. Lock the four top latches
13. Raise the legs but do not remove the wheel chocks yet
14. Connect camper to towing vehicle (don’t forget the chains and power connection) and drive forward to access the wheel chocks if needed
15. Lock all access doors and verify all of the other locks are secure
16. Dump water if needed
 

hammer1234

Active Member
Mar 26, 2010
287
Good to have a checklist. Ours is still evolving...

When do you crank down the stabilizers?

Also, the advice that I got from the dealer was to turn the gas on before pulling the front bunk out. It can be done later but it's easier to do it before.

Do you have an awning?
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
#7 says to "Level the camper" and that is when we lower the stabilizers and adjust then. Ours does not crank they pull out and drop down and have holes in them that a metal bar fits in and I use that to raise the camper. Thanks for the reply - I'll reword that to make it clearer.

I understand about turning the gas on before pulling out the bunk but there is enough clearance for me to get to the tanks and I don't want the gas on for so long without lighting. But your comment makes perfect sense.

We do have an awning and a screen room but have not used them yet. We had to make a repair to it and this weekend will be our 4th weekend with the camper but the 1st time we'll get to use the awning and screen room. I may or may not add them to the list. we'll see how it goes.

Thanks again for your comments!
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
How about this for #7:
7. Lower the 4 stabilizer legs and level camper by adjusting the height of the legs if needed
 

hammer1234

Active Member
Mar 26, 2010
287
No problem...just trying to share some personal experiences.

On our pop-up, we are supposed to crank down the stabilizers before raising the roof, but on some pop-ups I think you can do it after.

Hear you on when you turn on the propane. I've done it after pulling out the bunk...not a big deal.

Advice on the awning is to roll it out and set it up when you have the roof partly raised. Makes it a lot easier to reach it and to install the rafter poles. Also, you may want to do a practice run to set up the awning...we waited until our first camping trip and it took 45 minutes to figure out what to do. The instructions that came with the pop-up were completely useless. Now that we know how the setup goes it's only a few minutes.
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
Yes we were told to level before raising too that's why leveling is step 7 and cranking up the top is 9.

Thanks for the tip on the awning LOL I can see us having the top all the way up with the door in place then wondering how I was going to reach the awning HAHAHA.

Love this forum!
 

PattieAM

Super Active Member
Dec 13, 2007
915
My checklist is based upon my owners manual's set up steps.....(I have a highwall Niagara).

1. Physically check site and placement of W/E/S before backing into site. (I make marks or place objects as markers - as to where I want the trailer) (I also take the time to look at the trees/branches as they can do some damage to a PUP in a storm)

2. Back into site.
3. Pop the roof latches and raise roof an inch or to (to get door open).
4. Level side to side (placing bubble level on floor) - if needed, place Lynx blocks on low side and pull/back camper onto them. re-check level and change accordingly.
5. Chock both wheels - front and back - using mallot to snug the chocks against the tires.
6. Disconnect camper from TV and pull TV out of the way.
7. Level front to rear using tongue jack.
8. Unfurl awning if desired (remember I have a highwall so the roof's at check height) and begin add-a-room (AAR) assembly, (Popup Gizmos can be installed at this point - clipping top edge under the roof).
9. Raise roof (adjusting awning poles/PUGS's accordingly)
10. Lower Stabilizers
11. Pull out front bunk first, then rear bunk, then glide out dinette. Support front and rear bunks.
12. Inside - insert bunk end ridge poles and glide out dinette ridge pole.
13. remove door from ceiling and place in door track.
14. Outside - attach bungies on bunk ends to secure - attach velcro and snaps on glide out. (Look for gaps) - attach velcro around door frame.
15. Plug camper into 30amp campground pedistal
16. Run CG water a minute or two before attaching pressure regulator, water filter and white potable water hose - run again a minute or two before connecting to camper.
17. Open Propane tank valve VERY SLOWLY.
18. Inside - run hot water faucet to be sure there's water in water heater. Run cold also to purge air from water lines. Turn on fridge.
19. Light burner on stove and boil a pan of water to purge air from propane lines.
20. Outside - light water heater.
21. Connect camper to sewer hose/campground sewer or Barker blue tote. Open greywater knife valve.
22. Cosmetic stuff (zip up add-a-room, look for gaps in canvas as bugs will enter at night when lights are on, set up chairs in AAR, transfer cooler stuff to fridge)
23. inside cosmetic stuff - set up dinette table, over sink chuck box, pillows to bunks, suitcase to bunk, etc. Set up kitchen (coffee maker, etc) Set up bathroom and put over the door racks on walls and personal shower kits in racks. Hang towels/wash cloths. Check toilet for water in bowl.

Tear down is reversed, with the exception of the glide out - it needs to go in before the bunk ends go in. Canvas needs to stay poofed out so rails won't pinch/tear them.
 

PaThacker

Super Active Member
Feb 11, 2010
1,493
Poconos
Does your model have external anti roof failure supports?
Our's goes on immediately after the roof is raised, and removed once we are ready to drop the roof.
 

rpm2203

sure - that's fine
Sep 7, 2003
98
Southern Ontario, Canada
so that whole #7 things raises the old question of when you drop the stabilizers. Before or after raising the roof. My Rockwood specificall says to drop the stabilizers first and then raise the roof, I know others however ,will tell you to raise the roof first and then drop the stabilizers.

hmmmmmm.
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
For my Jayco I level first by adjusting the height of the stabilizers, then I raise the top. The door frame doesn't fit well if it is not level, making opening and closing the door difficult.
 

RhinoDave

Super Active Member
Oct 29, 2008
2,317
Lake Orion, Mi.
"For my Jayco I level first by adjusting the height of the stabilizers"

The manual for your PUP states that you should raise the roof first and then drop the stabilizers. The stabilizers are to stabilize only and not to level the PUP. Leveling is done before lowering the stabilizers. Level side to side using a BAL leveler or Lynx blocks or blocks of wood. Level front to back using the front wheel jack.

Here's the link to1995 Jayco manual.
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
Thanks RhinoDave. I was doing it wrong.Thanks for the link to the manual - I am reading it now. I don't know what a BAL leveler or Lynx blocks are but I will research.

Thanks again!
 

Mr. Bill

PUP-2002 Flagstaff 725D TV- 2004 Dodge Ram 1500
Apr 27, 2009
621
Geneva, OH
rwright142. I also have a checklist. BUT I wanted to say I bet you were in the NAVY at some time in your life.

(Shore Power) was the give away.

Also when it comes to chocking, I found something that has worked better than anything else. Set back chock and have DW back up a bit so wheel starts up the chock. Brake. Put in front chock and put vehicle in park. This ensures the chock is tight as I use it to help with stability.
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
Mr. Bill,

Guilty as charged HAHAHA however I was an AX - aviation antisubmarine warfare technician and I never saw water. I was all land based at naval air stations. But I saw the term Shore Power quote here in the forums so I adopted it. What does DW stand for? I know it means something like significant other, driver of the towing vehicle, etc. but "DW" eludes me. I have seen it used a few times and just now thought to ask.

Thanks for the tip on the chock - we'll try that this weekend!
 

Mr. Bill

PUP-2002 Flagstaff 725D TV- 2004 Dodge Ram 1500
Apr 27, 2009
621
Geneva, OH
DW=dear wife
DS=dear son
DD=dear daughter
FIL, MIL, BIL=Father in law, Mother in law, brother in law

BTW, I was on Subs. SS582 bonefish, SSN615 gato, SSN720 Pittsburgh.
 

rwright142

Member
Aug 24, 2010
58
@Mr. Bill - Wow - lot of history with the Bonefish and the Gato, that's cool. Were you ever at Barber's Point?

I have modified my checklist some and learned some more about my Pup. This weekend was one of challenges. The trailer jack broke while I was trying to level the PuP. Luckily no one was in the way but now I have to fix that. The toilet also does not flush. When I press the button no fluid comes out and I don't hear any pump sounds. The furnace does not put out any heat - the fan blows but no heat. I will start another post about those so as not to clog this one.

Thanks for all the posts.
 




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