side board thinckness standards?

[newbiecamper]

After putting down the Camplite after the rains finally gave up for a couple days, i see i am in the market for new sideboards. i know there is topic after topic on the subject, and i have read most of them. But its too much to try and put it all together, so im gonna ask anyway.
1- is there a standard as to the thickness of the material used to make the new sideboards? I am referring to the wood in itself, not including the trim-coil or whichever material is used.

2- How exactly are the sideboards attached to the end boards and roof? i have seen the
L-brackets on mine in the corners. Is this the norm across the board to the roof as well? Or does it simply screw into the wood framing around the roof?

3- My roof has a very generous curve front and back, and my question is what is involved in making/replicating that curve, in the event i have to do a complete roof rebuild?

I am more concerned with the sideboards, as these hold the lift arms and the latches for the roof. the end boards are not the best, but as long as it sheds water im ok with them.

TIA as usuaL for all the comments, advice, info and help. if i have not said said it befor I will now, THIS SITE IS AWESOME!!!

 

[newbiecamper]

This is unusual for the portal, to not have any replies, comments or advice.

 

[Tentless]

This is unusual for the portal, to not have any replies, comments or advice.

Hi

Can't speak directly for yours - mine is a Viking Saga - Since you said you read allot you should have a good based to start with. I found it it easy to repiar mine base on the info I found - but that maybe I have more experience.

1- are they all bad on each corner or the whole length or can you just piece work like I did. - particial teardown may be required

2 - how long are your sides - sourcing new material length is important. You may have to special order some plywood for the length. Once you have it you can clamp a piece onto the side of the roof and trace out the form of it. you will have to remove at least your trim pieces to get an accurate trace - I found 5/8" ply to suit my needs.

3- Take pictures and lable what you take off - I used small zipper sanwich bags and permenant marker to keep screws.

My work sor far:
http://patrike.synthasite.com/the-pup-repair.php

Good luck
Patrick

 

[MikeInLa]

1- is there a standard as to the thickness of the material used to make the new sideboards? I am referring to the wood in itself, not including the trim-coil or whichever material is used.

With mine ('96 Rockwood), I used 1/2" I believe. What I did was once the bottom trim was off, I used a micrometer to measure the thickness, then used it at Home Depot to find something as close as possible to the same thickness. You can do this with a simple tape measure as well (I just happen to have a micrometer at my disposal).

2- How exactly are the sideboards attached to the end boards and roof? i have seen the
L-brackets on mine in the corners. Is this the norm across the board to the roof as well? Or does it simply screw into the wood framing around the roof?

For mine it was pretty much as you theorize here; L-brackets in the corners, and screws into the roof itself. However, the screws on mine go through the top trim, sideboard, and into the roof. If you have a top trim, there may be a rounded (plastic) cover piece that hides the screws.

3- My roof has a very generous curve front and back, and my question is what is involved in making/replicating that curve, in the event i have to do a complete roof rebuild?

Can't help you here as I know nothing about your model camper.

I am more concerned with the sideboards, as these hold the lift arms and the latches for the roof. the end boards are not the best, but as long as it sheds water im ok with them.

The sideboards are important, they support the roof as you said. This is why I used plywood for mine.

 

[newbiecamper]

Can't help you here as I know nothing about your model camper.

its a '97 Camplite by Damon, anyway, thank much for the response, i was thinking along the same lines for measuring the current sideboard thinckness. As for the curve, i am assuming there is some sort of metal/plastic radial corner bracket under the roof skin, but i know what happens when i assume. i think i will tackle the drivers side sideboard, and save the rest for next year, but maybe its not such a bad chore and i will do both sides. My biggest problem is a place to do it out of the elements.

 

[TheWunders]

The "generous curve" on our Rotwood...er, Rockwood...was originally made with a Styrofoam backing the outer coating. We cut the front panel of the roof with a jigsaw just before the styrofoam curve and replace the rotted wood with a new 1 x 6 board and aluminium flashing. It's not pretty but it works.

Hey, we park our camper in the woods...who cares what it looks like as long as it doesn't leak, right? It's old, it's used, but it doesn't leak anymore...woohoo!

 

[Warthog]

Here is a pic of the styrofoam inside my Rockwood. I used 5/8" BCX plywood for my sideboards.

 

[HappyCamperTX]

I just did this with my 1995 Rockwood. I used 5/8 plywood, but if I ever do it again I will probably go with 1/2 inch. The 5/8 gave it more strenght but it was just a little wider than the original.

As far as how the sideboard is attached, it seems it is very dependent upon the year/make/model and you wont know for sure until you expose that area.

In regards to the curve, again that may depend on your situation. When I took off my sideboard, there was a plastic/vinyl trim installed on the inside of the sideboard. I took this piece as a template and traced it onto the wood and FRP I used as the replacement skin. It worked great. All I did was cut the traced-out shape with my jig saw and then made a few adjustments with sandpaper for a clean, tight fit.