Side to side leveling

Discussion in 'PopOut (Hybrids)' started by cfmx, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. arffch

    arffch Member

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    the x-type chocks are for stability only. for "roll control" a set of standard wheel chocks on the high side (only one tire necessary) to keep the trailer from rolling is all that is necessary. Some say that if you have a foot on your front jack and not a wheel that is all you need but i like a chock on the high side better.

    so lets see:
    1, anderson levelers on low side, move camper to level.
    2 chock high side
    3 unhook TV
    4 level front to rear
    5 x-chock for stabilty
    6 lower stabilizers
    7 open camper
    8 find cold beverage [:D]
     
    brewcru likes this.
  2. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    Got the Anderson Levelers in yesterday. They seem really well made. Love the fact they are made in the USA.
    Can't wait to try them once the camper comes in. :)
    Thanks everyone for your help!!
     
  3. piscoot

    piscoot Member

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    I will be anxious to read your review!


    Sent from my Piscoot's iPad using Tapatalk
     
  4. Sharon

    Sharon Dover, FL

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    Me Too! I cant wait to see some reviews on the Anderson Levelers.

    I do have a question from the video on them. It shows they use a carpenters Level on the side of the Travel Trailer.

    Andersen Camper Leveler - level your trailer on the first try!

    Really, That really works. I thought you would put it flat on the back bumper so some thing.
    Sharon
     
  5. bikendan

    bikendan Active Member

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    i put a carpenter's level inside on the floor, next to the fridge, since that's the most important thing to be level.
     
  6. Sharon

    Sharon Dover, FL

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    Yes, that is how we leveled the pup. It just threw me off when I seen that in the video. Like really, how does that work. I think we will have to try it to see how well it works.

    Sharon
     
  7. Old_Geezer

    Old_Geezer Well-Known Member

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    I use, or have used, depending on the site / situation.

    5' 2X10 lumber, I carry 4 of those in the TV.

    Lynx blocks....we carry 3 bags.

    A combination of both of those.

    I have even used my Camco trailer aid jack if a lot of leveling is not required.


    As far as where to hold the level, the side or floor, it doesn't matter. The fridge needs to be plumb but not critically plumb, within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back.
    3 degrees is a lot, get a protractor sometime and set your camper 3 degrees out, its more than it sounds like. On a standard 6 cu ft fridge it would be about 2 to 3 inches out of level at 3 degrees without doing the math, you'll see and feel that. I have "eyeballed" my trailer level. I have also used the fridge door to get it close.

    If your floor is level your sidewall is close to plumb, and if its not you have bigger problems
     
  8. 77starmaster

    77starmaster New Member

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    Snow, I just bought a 25' 2001 trail-lite and after years of using my pup the tandem wheels are new. I made new 2x10" x 4' long to back on but the tandem wheel chocks are all new to me. What do they actually do? Help stop wiggle along with the jacks? Thanks
     
  9. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    The home made ones like mine will help reduce wiggle and bounce as well they can be used as chocks once the trailer is level. If I get a chance tomorrow I'll take a few pictures of the set up and post Tuesday.
     
  10. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    I tried the Anderson Leveler but it's too long to fit between the tires. Another Roo owner cut a little off the front and works fine. We will have to do the same. Hopefully before this next weekend camping trip. :)
     
  11. Old_Geezer

    Old_Geezer Well-Known Member

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    Those Anderson levelers are ok until you need more than 4", then what. Your back to blocks. More often than not we need more than 4" on the low side. I don't know how those would work if you needed additional blocks under them.

    As far as blocking one tire or both it doesn't matter if you are only raising the one a few inches. If you can get by blocking/raising only one go for it. It will not damage the trailer or make it shake, bounce or be unstable. That is why the suspension has an equalizer link in the center. What you don't want is one tire jacked up and blocked, and the other jacked off off the ground. In order to even do this the one tire would need raised at least 5 inches.

    If you raise one tire 3 inches, the 2nd tire does not know if its sitting on a block or the ground, so when people say this gives you more shake I do not know how they come up with that?
     
  12. fallsrider

    fallsrider Active Member

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    I've used a wood block on only one axle a couple of times. But that was because a 1" decking board under both tires was a little too much. In both cases, I used only a 1" decking board under the one tire, so there was only a 1" difference between the two tires. This gave me an average 1/2" of lift. There should be no problem with that.

    If you needed a lot more leveling, say something in the 3" range, I don't see why you couldn't fine tune it with 1" or 1-1/2" more under one tire than the other. What I wouldn't do is have a large difference between the two tires, say 2" or 3" more under one than the other.
     
  13. G T

    G T Member

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    Snow, I have set up the PUP in the backyard. It is level front to back but instead of 0 it is 1 side to side. Is that adequate to prevent harm when I open it up or does it have to be 0? Thanks for your help.
     
  14. daveo1289

    daveo1289 Active Member

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    I made two sets of leveling boards. They're different thickness so if I need to, I can stack them and drive up on them with both tires. It's the easiest for me.
     
    J Starsky likes this.
  15. J Starsky

    J Starsky Well-Known Member

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    First accessory for our TT was green treated 2x10s and some 2x8s for the stab jack pads. I cut enough to make stackable piles at 3 tall, and we leave 3 on the ground to land on at home. I'd bet I can level side to side 6-8 inches with what I carry.

    Sure, it isn't cheap - but I'll never need them again.
     
  16. G T

    G T Member

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    Thanks for the info. Found out one of the reasons I couldn't level the PUP was the PO replaced the hitch jack with one that attached to one side of the tongue. Needless to say whenever you raise or lower using that jack it causes the frame to twist to that side. Looking to find the replacement jack for the popup. Possibly have to adjust the lifts as well on the side I replaced the roof side panels. They had definitely shifted since one of them was already penetrating the ceiling.
     
    daveo1289 likes this.
  17. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Leveling side to side has nothing to do with the jack? Drive up on the blocks untill the tralor is level. If your hitch jack is twisting the frame so it takes the level out of that something is seriously wrong. Mine was on the side of the toung also, it should just lift the toung and lower the back end, so front to back leveling. The blocks go under the tires for side to side leveling.
     

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