Slide Out Dining support legs

Discussion in 'Slide-Outs / Bunkends' started by radar862, Jun 5, 2019.

  1. radar862

    radar862 New Member

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    Good morning fellow PUP owners -

    I recently purchased a 2001 Starcraft Space Master, an upgrade from my previous PUP, a 1971 Jayco Thrush, that still has a few years left on it.

    Anyway, when setting it up the 2001 this past weekend to get it prepped for the summer adventures, one of the support legs for the dining slide out would not extend down in length like the other one does. I tried white lithium grease (vs WD40) and tapping it with a hammer to no avail. The front one has no problem dropping in to place and extending. Is this something that can easily be repaired or should I invest in a replacement leg? In the meantime to avoid stress on the slide out I will prop that side up with some 2x4s.

    Thank you - and happy camping!!!
    Camper_Leg1.jpg Camper_Leg2.jpg Camper_Leg3.jpg
     
  2. theseus

    theseus Centerville, OH

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    Try some pb blaster to break up any rust.
     
    jmkay1 and friartuck like this.
  3. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Radar,
    Did you ever get the leg to drop? (always good to post back when what ever problem was fixed so the next guy can learn from your experience. :eek:)
    I agree on applying PB Blaster. You may need to apply daily for 3 or more days... patience, this stuff works.
    We bought a 10' box Stardust w/ 60x78 and 48x78 bunks. Finding specs for 'box length' is impossible, you have to interpolate from bunks extended overall length. We may upgrade to a 10' or 12' box w/ a slide out next season. Can you say what box length and bunk sizes your Starmaster has. My guess is 12' box + 72L x 78W front bunk and 48L x 78W rear bunk.

    Also, what are you finding the pros and cons of this floor plan are? Nothing like hearing from an owner to guess what we might like.
    Thanks,
    Dave
     
  4. radar862

    radar862 New Member

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    Dave -

    I didn't have any luck with the PB Blaster, but I will take your suggestion of applying it for 3 or more days and see if that does the trick. If not, it's not the end of the world. I'll just go back to what I had been doing and using the stacking levels under that leg. Hopefully I can get it stored in my garage soon for the winter (YUCK!!!) and give this a try.

    I do love the floor plan. With three growing adorable grandchildren, the slide out gives us a bit more square footage for those times when we're stuck in the camper because of weather (not to mention the easy conversion to make it a bed if needed).

    A few downsides: With the slideout it takes up precious storage space. I had to get creative on my packing and downsize on things I took with the previous PUP (and of course I hardly ever used). The previous PUP had an after-market closet/pantry installed so I purchased a folding bookshelf that sits on one of the counters to hold the food. The stove can be used inside or outside, which is nice. It can be a bit tricky to get outside and on the brackets.

    On the upside: It's a ton easier to setup vs the previous 48 year old camper (that's still on the road) and a lot roomier!

    Next purchase - a bike rack for the adorables. Just torn should between getting a top mounted rack or one that attaches to the back bumper.

    All in all, so glad I upgraded! Until next spring!!!
     

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  5. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Radar, thanks for the info. On the PB Blaster. Years ago I was working on an engine from under the car between the firewall and the engine. Super cramped and a bowl that was just stuck after days of trying. I had no choice but to force myself to have patience. Literally for two weeks I crawl under the car give it a score to PB blaster each day. (It was left jacked up in the garage still ‘in process’. I was forced to this patient because if I stripped the bolt or broke it off I’d have to pay to get the engine pulled and THAT was not gonna happen! So if you are able to Park it in the garage in a way you can reach to give it a squirt of PB blaster every once in a while over it’s winter storage, good chance you’ll have a pleasant surprise come spring time or sooner.

    On rear bumper bike rack. Being that enough tongue weight is critical to not going into dangerous sway mode, especially if we drive over 65 (guilty here), whatever weight you add to the very end of the fulcrum (bumper), would either need to be removed from rear storage inside the pup, or added to the front.

    I have not actually weighed my trailer to calculate an actual 15% that my actual/weighed +/- 300 lb tongue weight is to my actual trailer weight, but only dry weight plus estimated cargo, water, LPG.
    If you were to consider adding a significant weight to the back bumper (50-75 lbs+?), it might be worth the hassle of going to a scale to get the weight at the axle. Or you could estimate the added bumper weight think what weight you could move forward. Obviously, the bottom line is how it sways it doesn’t sway at freeway speed after any changes with careful experimentation.

    I too like the ‘idea’ of bikes on the back, as opposed to the somewhat fragile roof. Not to mention, the difficulty lifting adult bikes up onto the roof. But with pint sized bikes , a roof rack may be quite doable. If I was to consider a roof rack, I’d lean towards mounting healthy ‘L’ channel brackets to the side of the roof and not bolting thru the foam+1/8” lean roof.

    Good luck on the jack ‘dropping’ over the winter.
     
  6. bheff

    bheff Well-Known Member

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    I have had 3 Travel trailers that had slides and none had support legs for the slide.
    I agree on the PB blaster for a few days. If that doesn't work then you'll need to look further into it and see if there isnt some damage preventing it from extending
     
  7. lksdrinker

    lksdrinker Active Member

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    PB Blaster, Kroil or even just some motor oil (transmission fluid is a really good lubricant too!) are good things to try. Applying heat is also worth a try. You mentioned "tapping" with a hammer. On something like that I'd feel pretty comfortable with a lot more than a few gentle taps. I'd swing away using a small 3 lb sledge or something like that!
     
  8. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Hitting bolt heads with a hammer can do some damage, that I do not like to deal with later to get a socket or wrench on it. Heat bolt with a propane torch, then a shot of PB, heat again, and another shot of PB. You can also use a hammer drill, in chisel mode with a round punch, to hit directly on the head. You're trying to set up shock waves to break up rust to make a path for the PB Blaster.
     

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