Snugging up swingdowns

Discussion in 'Stabilizing Your Camper' started by jab2181, Jun 15, 2014.

  1. jab2181

    jab2181 New Member

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    Ok, I am sure it has been on a thread before but I am not really seeing it anywhere. I have the swing down type stabilizers on our 96 Jayco 1207. I saw today while looking at a video on youtube they took a screwdriver, stuck it one of the holes and snugged it down even more to where it was tight. Not using it to level it but to make sure it was snug to the ground. Does anyone else do this with this style of stabilizer? Our pup does not tip or teeter but I would like to make it more stable. We are purchasing a BAL in a few weeks, so I know this will help as well and use 1x4's under the stabilizers. Just looking for a little impute! [CP]
     
  2. sgip2000

    sgip2000 Member

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    Yes, I do that. I usually pull them down to where they just make contact and then lock them into place with the adjustment bar.

    Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
     
  3. Oranges Rhymed

    Oranges Rhymed Member

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    Good question. I have swingdown stabs on my "newest" Dutchmen, and I'm having a hard time cyphering on how to snug them up. Pictures or a link to that video would be welcome.
     
  4. jab2181

    jab2181 New Member

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    It's actually on the setup video for quicksilver campers.
    http://www.livinlite.com/xlp-overview.php
     
  5. generok

    generok Well-Known Member

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    Heck yeah I do that! In fact, there's a pole they sell that fits in the holes. You have to be sure you don't bend the slide down since it won't slide in there well if you do.

    In fact, I have these type of stabilizers on one of my util trailers, and I have to be sure to REALLY be snug with that trailer.
     
  6. Oranges Rhymed

    Oranges Rhymed Member

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    Great! Found the snugging up part at about 11 minutes into that video. Thanks.
     
  7. cprdnick

    cprdnick Just Clint

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    Mine came with a solid piece of rod stock. Basically it looks like a jack handle that isn't hollow, whether this was the original or not, I dunno. My owners manual says to lower the stab to the ground under its own weight, then to use the bar to lever the stabilizer down one to two holes or until snug, which would be why the little window in the side of the stabilizer is only big enough for two holes. On the back side of the stabilizer, theres only one hole, once the stab is down, I usually shove the handle through the top most hole in the front, down through the back hole, and press down until the top hole is now the bottom hole. Sturdy enough for my chunky **s to roll around in.
     
  8. generok

    generok Well-Known Member

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    Yup. That's about what I do.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
     
  9. Guams

    Guams New Member

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    The previous owner of my PUP used the darn things to level the camper.... even told me so when I was looking at it. He showed me how they work then had the hardest time getting the rear curb-side stab to slide back up. The next day, I yanked all the stabs out of their housings, cleaned off the rust, and smacked them back into shape with a hammer. Now they all work just fine. Mine also came with a piece of rod-stock that I use. Unlike the PO, I don't level with them.... I just snug them to the ground.
     
  10. mcbrew

    mcbrew Member

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    My previous camper said to level the camper with the swing down stabilizers in the instructions. I would get it close with leveling Legos and then use the swing downs to fine tube the leveling. In 30 years, this never hurt the camper in any way. However, most manufacturers only recommend them as stabilizers.
     
  11. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Yep, level the camper front to back (using the hitch jack) then side to side (using the BAL), drop the stabs, snug them up (I snug mine so they're carrying about 10-20 lbs of weight) and the camper doesn't budge.

    Folks who like to jack up their campers using the swing down stabs are easy enough to spot, they're the ones struggling to retract bent stabs on Sunday afternoon.
     
  12. jab2181

    jab2181 New Member

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    Lol Dubbya, no kidding I have seen it first hand as well!
     
  13. Dread_Pirate_Bailey

    Dread_Pirate_Bailey Member

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    I didn't get the rod for my stabilizers, so I just lean in under and pull them down by hand so they snug into place. So far so good, but I probably should get a screwdriver or a rod of some type, since it's not so easy to get under there now.
     
  14. efehser

    efehser New Member

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    Something else you can do (besides replacing the rotten things) is have the camper slightly nose low, set the rear stabs, then final level with the tongue jack. Mine are being replaced with crank downs, not because they are in bad shape (PO didn't know they were there) but because they are a PITA to use. I just love kneeling in wet grass/mud to get them set. [:(O]
     
  15. jab2181

    jab2181 New Member

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    I thought about doing this as well, mine sits too low though and would be afraid it would bottom out with them.
     
  16. efehser

    efehser New Member

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    They sit about 2" below the frame, in the rear you'll bottom the bumper first. Front won't be an issue.
     
  17. jab2181

    jab2181 New Member

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    Ours has the wide tires (that I hate), also the bumper sits flush with the bottom of the frame. I do not understand why they made a pup with NO ground clearance. That is also thy I have not put a new step on. I have thought about the torsion lift but with the style of tires that are on it now. Do not want to make it look goofy lol.
     
  18. efehser

    efehser New Member

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    Mine used to have the tiny and hard to find 8 inch wheels. Found out on this forum I could fit 12 inch wheels and tires and get an essentially free (I needed tires anyway) 2 inches of lift.

    Depending on what you want to spend on the camper, you can get new axles from Dexter with an increased angle on the trailing arm, therefore some lift, or you can lift your current axle and look into different wheels and tires. 12 inch ties are 21 to 22 inches in diameter, and have enough load range available for your trailer. There will also be easier towing with the narrower tire. I believe the thinking behind the flotation tires was that they wouldn't sink into soft ground (false). Don't know what the low rider mindset was for.
     
  19. jab2181

    jab2181 New Member

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    That's no kidding, in order to take the wheel and tire it clear the camper, I have to have it off the ground about a total of 8" just to clear it from the wheel well. I might have to think about calling dexter to see what they will run me!
     

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