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Discussion in 'Camper Restoration Projects' started by William Freeman, Jun 3, 2018.
No problem - I'm glad you did. My fault for not watching it before posting.
You will hear the gas valve open a few seconds after the blower comes on and the igniter sparking if the sail switch is working. If not the fan will turn off and a red LED will be blinking on the PC board inside the heater cover. Count the blinks and there might be a chart attached to the heater that tells what the # of blinks means. At least that what's on my Avalon. Test the voltage with the fan running and see if there is a voltage drop, that's what happened to mine.
Nope, I don't hear the gas valve opening and ignitor sparking. I cleaned out the exhaust port - there WAS a dirt dauber nest in there (a small one). Still no gas valve opening or spark, so I removed the control panel to get to the trouble code LED (the panel was behind a plastic cover). I am getting 1 flash and the panel says that means Air flow/limit switch. Since the blower seems to be running fine (feels good laying in the floor in front of it when it is STILL 85deg outside @ 8:30PM!), would that mean the EXHAUST side (sail switch)? I'm not exactly sure how to test the voltage with the fan running. The furnace is an Atwood Hydro Flame 7916-II if that helps.
Did you test for a voltage drop?
No, I didn't check voltage yet - hopefully I can get out there this afternoon to get some work done instead of a few minutes here and there! Another question: Does the battery have to be installed for the 12v stuff to work correctly, or will the converter run it fine? The reason I ask is because although I bought a new battery, I haven't hooked it up yet (partly because I couldn't remember which wires went where and partly because I forgot to. Now I know white wires are grounds on campers after a little research).
I would test it with the battery installed and the converter off. If there is too little voltage going to the heater, the fan turns too slow and won't trip the sail switch. Do you have a picture of your heater with the outside cover off?
Outside is only the exhaust. On the pic of the inside of the furnace, the red wire (top right of control board) and the outside black wire on the right wall of the furnace go to the blower, along with a white wire (I'm guessing is the sail switch.
The last pic is how I am guessing the wires hook up to the battery - black positive, white and beige negative, correct?
Look for the limit switch, it should have a reset button. I tried to help someone else with this issue but they couldn't figure it out, or they hit the reset by accedent. I'll try to link to the thread.
Check this out, if it's simmiler.
You have it open, and I can see the what I think is a limit switch in your photo. See if it has a reset button. It's small and could be on the opposite side.
Will do - that will be one of the first things on the list tomorrow.
Yep, on the 3rd picture (at the top) is what I believe is the temp limit switch. In the 2nd picture is a black rocker switch - on it is marked reset on top (it's also the ON position) and OFF on the bottom. That is the only reset switch that I can see, although I don't know how to reset it. Maybe if it trips, it will act more like a tripped breaker. I'll check out your thread link in a few minutes.
Yes that's the switch, it should have a tiny button on it. If not try to bypass it. See if the furnace runs. I hate these things, and atually bypassed them on my last home.
I went back and read the thread that you referenced. That's the same furnace. I felt empowered with the new information and decided to go out and do some troubleshooting. I hooked up the battery before I got started. I pulled the wires off of the limit switch and removed it. Mine didn't have any type of reset button on it. I tested it via the video on the other thread - it checked out. I hooked the switch back up and turned it on. I turned the thermostat on. The blower turned on and the gas valve still didn't open or try to ignite. I thought about it for a minute and decided to try holding the metal tab down when I turned it on - it fired within 15 seconds!
Sooo - as it turns out, there was nothing wrong with it from the start! When I "fixed" the thermostat ON/OFF switch that wouldn't move, I didn't realize that the metal tab that I bent (to enable it to move) has to continue to touch another metal contact on the base. If it doesn't, it acts like you turned it back off!
Live and learn!
Thanks for all the help on this little "problem"! Now, on to the next project - changing out the faucet (tomorrow).
That switch, even though I don't have one in my pop up, is my sworn enemy. Lol. Glad it's fixed. Have fun !
In case your interested, or we have simmiler problums my money pit is over here http://www.popupportal.com/threads/coleman-westlake-2000-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly.118498/
Glad you figured it out
Yep, just like mine - a lot of little stuff to work out before taking it camping. I just have to schedule enough time to fix the ceiling before fall! I'm hopefully going to wash and waterproof the Sunbrella next week when I'm off - doubt I'll get to it today (and today is my last day off). It is dirty, but I don't know if it is dirty enough for the water/bleach wash - going to try Woolite first.
Going to go work on the thermostat and faucet shortly. Does anyone know if you can buy the fresh water fill hose at Lowe's, Home Depot or a pool supply house? I found it on eBay and Amazon - like $17 delivered for 5'.
OK, I accomplished what I set out to do on the camper this week off. Everything is checked out and working now (except for the fresh water fill). Today, I adjusted the little metal tab on the thermostat until I got the correct bend in it to allow it to stay in touch with the contact. Now the furnace works correctly. I also replaced the faucet - no more leaks there!
I think the camper is ready to go camping now. We are considering going for a couple of nights next week (Tues and Wed) when I'm off. I am going to order the hose and a new fill port (since it is discolored and missing the cap lanyard anyway).
I got off work this morning and decided to work on the PUP when I got home. One of the main things left to do was to clean and re waterproof the canvas.
I mixed up some Woolite and water (5 capfulls to 5 gal water). I soaked everything down pretty good before i started. It was soon apparent that there was very little water repellant left on the canvas. I used a soft car wash brush to scrub the canvas. On areas that needed more attention, I scrubbed with a wheel brush (slightly stiffer plastic bristles). Most of the stains came out, but overall the canvas WASN'T that dirty.
While the canvas was drying, I turned my attention to the awning that has been bugging me since I bought the PUP. The problem was - the header bar (at the end of the awning) wouldn't fit into the awning bag! How did this come about - I have no idea. The header was about 2" longer than the bag, so you couldn't zip the bag up. I measured the bag and got 13.5'. The header measured 13'4". There was only one option - cut 4" off the header. I removed the header from the awning and re measured before I cut it. Then I marked and cut 4" off. Then I measured the holes for the support poles from the other side and drilled them. I re mounted the hardware and the awning. Now I have about 1/2" of extra header on each side of the awning. I haven't tried to fit it in the bag yet, but it SHOULD go.
After the canvas dried completely in the HOT afternoon SC sun, I got out my new bottle of 303 protectant and started spraying. I used a piece of cardboard to protect the vinyl from overspray. It is recommended to apply 2 LIGHT coats, but I only applied one SEMI heavy coat. I used about 3/4 of a 32oz. bottle, so the canvas SHOULD be waterproof now!
This afternoon I learned that my brother bought a 2016 TT last week and has been at Myrtle Beach for 5 days - looks like the family is back into camping again!
I still need to replace the fresh water tank fill hose. I think I'll see if Home Depot has a suitable replacement tomorrow.
When I shut off the A/C, a good bit of condensation dripped back out of one of the side returns. Enough dripped back out that I had to put a towel down to soak the puddle up! I think I just found out what happened to my ceiling! I felt around where the damage to the ceiling was and it felt like it had dried out. We have had a thunder storm with lots of rain almost every day for the past 6 days, so if the roof or A/C gasket was leaking the ceiling should've still been wet. The last time I was off I re duct taped the gap between the A/C unit and the ceiling assembly because I was thinking that the cold air might be condensing and blowing between the ceiling layers (the old duct tape had been cut and not re taped). I guess there was some truth in that idea - now it's not blowing between the ceiling layers - just condensing in the return and dripping back out.
Now I need to figure out how to insulate between the return and supply. I see that the newer units have a vinyl boot that gets taped to the ceiling assembly instead of the gap being duct taped. Can this boot be purchased separately? I have been looking at buying a chill grill for the bottom controls and added bottom vents. This will also provide a new seal between the returns and supply duct.