Starcraft Centennial roof rebuild

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by CecilSturgill, Mar 25, 2018.

  1. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    Hi everybody. This is my first post, but I've been reading and learning a lot here. I really appreciate all the help I've already gotten. Unfortunately too much of my research was done after we bought a pop-up, not before.

    We bought a 2004 Starcraft Centennial 3600 about a month ago. The 4 roof sidewalls, and filon top are shot and need replaced. Some warning signs were there, but between the excitement from the kids, the wife, and myself, I missed them. Completely my fault. I've been really bummed out about the situation, but it's time to stop moping and get things fixed. I've searched and read about a lot of roof rebuilds, but I still have a few questions (please give me any advise you have).

    My plan is to make sidewalls out of 1/2" plywood. I've made the front and back boards, and I have my sideboards lap jointed, glued, and rough cut with the jig saw. I was going to laminate them on both sides with white vinyl flashing (bought at Lowe's). Planning on using contact cement for this. Is that a half-way decent plan?

    To replace the filon top, I bought a superflex alpha rubber roof kit. I plan on covering the top of the roof with luan, and glueing the rubber roof to that. Is that my best bet?

    None of the wood I have used/plan on using is pressure treated, so should I apply some kind of waterseal (like Thompson's)? I don't plan on it ever getting wet again

    My last question (for now), it seems the rubber roof should only cover the top, and front and back boards, not the sideboards( just like the original filon did). How do I possibly apply the superflex glue to the top, front and back boards without completely gunking up the vinyl-flashed sideboards?

    Does my plan make any kind of sense or should I make changes? Thank you all for the help, I'm tired of losing sleep over this thing, and ready to start making memories with the family!
     
  2. Pozi

    Pozi Member

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    I've recently completely rebuilding the roof on my Palamino. It's a chore to say the least but in the end it's way better than factory. Mine was similar to yours in that I used 1/2" plywood for the sides/front/back with a light weight plywood top. I also used the TPO Alpha systems roofing. Great stuff. But I suggest applying it over the entire roof, sides included. I did it in such a way that there are ZERO seams. I simply folded over the sides, like wrapping a xmas present and used a heat gun to permanently bond the TPO together at these same corners. Folding the TPO up and under (into the interior) created a completely waterproof roof.

    Capture.PNG Capture2.PNG
     
    omahadlr and jnc like this.
  3. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    Here's a picture of the foam and 1x2 wood framing that was under the filon top. I'd like to reuse all of this, including the luan ceiling glued to the underside (one piece of the wood framing is rotten and will be replaced). The plan is to add several more 1x2s to the frame for support.
     
  4. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    Thanks for the info, Pozi. You did an awesome job with your rebuild. The original trim pieces joining the top and the sideboards are still okay (after I scrape a mile of caulk and butyl tape off), so I assumed I'd reuse them. Your pictures have me second guessing that plan now though. I wish I would have bought the 9.5' wide rubber roof instead of the 8.5' but it may still barely be wide enough. I also wouldn't have to worry about contact cementing the vinyl onto the sideboards. Gonna have to measure it up. Thanks!
     
  5. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    Good luck with your rebuild. I will be watching for more pictures of your project.
     
  6. Pozi

    Pozi Member

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    Your roof looks to be in a lot better shape than mine was when I started. Reusing every bit of that shouldn't be a concern as long as the foam insulation isn't water soaked. Just curious, when you say that you'd like to add 1x2 for supports, would you be adding those in-place of the insulation? I'm all for adding support. I found that when my roof sat nearly completed for months, even new it started to sag cause I hadn't added the metal bow to the interior side to force the convex shape. Building the convex shape into your roof now will payoff later.
     
  7. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    The foam is dry (no idea how) as far as I can tell. I'm going to cut out the insulation so the new 1x2s will sit tight to the ceiling and the new luan on top. I'm not sure how many, or exactly where I'm going to add them. I will definitely have some where the luan roof seams are (2 seams total), and to support the a/c and vent fan openings. I'm going to rip 2x4s down to 1 inch boards, as the gap is a true 1 inch.

    As far as making the roof convex, the original roof slopes down to the front and back, but runs straight from side to side. I'm going to keep this. I do have one factory a/c support inside, and a friend made me one out of 1.5" aluminum square stock with plates welded to the ends that bolt through the sidewall (I had that made back when I thought a little roof sag was my only problem). So I'm hoping to get away without adding and side to side slope. Hoping my plan works.
     
  8. Pozi

    Pozi Member

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    Sounds like a good plan. Being here in the PNW we don't need no stinkin AC units!

    Post up photos of your progress as you get there.
     
  9. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    View attachment 36538 Here are my new sideboards with the vinyl siding contact cemented on, and most of the canvas tracks reattached. There wasn't much left of the original boards to use as a template but I think I got them pretty close. I've got the front and back boards done too but apparently I forgot to take pictures. I'm hoping to get them stapled to the roof top Monday or Tuesday.

    They turned out ok, but I'm worried they're a little too flimsy. I would have been happier with a little thicker aluminum skin like original. Maybe by the time they're fastened on 3 edges it won't be an issue. They do weigh about 1/4 what the original water logged sideboards weigh.
     
  10. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    I've still been plugging away at this roof. Here's a couple pictures of how it currently sits. Sideboards are on, and I've added my 1x2s where I think I need them. Luan will go on tomorrow if everything goes well, and then rubber roof the next day.

    The more I think about it though, I'm afraid it might be getting too heavy. My new sideboards are definitely lighter than the heavy, wet ones I took off, but I've added 5 1x2s across, and will be adding almost 3 full sheets of luan. Worst case, I could leave the a/c off and add another vent, but I'd really rather not do that. View attachment 37025
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
  11. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    I have read in different places that most of the PUP roofs are built to hold about 100# more after the AC is added.
     
  12. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    Thanks, jnc. I certainly hope that applys to mine too .I've added some, but hopefully well under 100 lbs.

    I got the luan cut today. I'll get some pictures. I need to do a little more sanding before I glue and staple it down.

    I'm not sure the best way to get the lift arms bolt holes drilled into the sideboards. I could try to transfer the holes from the original sideboards, but I don't know how accurate that'll be. The other option is putting the roof on, then trying to mark the holes, but that's not gonna be very easy either.
     
  13. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    If you have not put the bunks back in it should be as easy as lowering the lift posts to the stops set the roof in place the make your marks from inside. If you drill from the inside it would be best to tape off the exterior to minimize the tearing out.
     
  14. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    Agreed, that might be the best bet. The bunks are still in, but it wouldn't be so hard to take them out. And good tip about taping the outside, thanks
     
  15. CecilSturgill

    CecilSturgill New Member

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    We got the luan glued and stapled down. I've got some bottle jacks underneath pushing the ceiling and foam to the luan while the adhesive dries. I drilled from underneath to mark the 4 corners of the vent and a/c openings and then cut them out from the top with a jig saw.

    Next I need to fill seams and gaps before the rubber roof goes on. I'm thinking I'll use some kind of flexible spackling for that, but not really sure. I'm open to suggestions. The rubber roof membrane is super thin so I want to get it nice and smooth.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
  16. Pozi

    Pozi Member

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    I used a wood filler product (exactly like Bondo) to fill in the gaps before I applied my roofing. Your local home improvement store will sell it.
     

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