Starcraft Roof Repair Complete!! (LONG WITH LOTS OF PICS)

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by nvfd114, Mar 26, 2010.

  1. nvfd114

    nvfd114 Failure to plan is a plan to fail.

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    This is a follow up post to the post further down titled "Another Starcraft with wood rot with PICS": Hope this turns out as a good post here goes:

    Once I got into the rear end board of the roof this is what I found:
    [​IMG]
    It was damp and falling apart - like wet tobacco. The side boards were fine and not rotten. I was afraid it would be hard to get out but the rotten OSB was sandwiched between two thin sheets of aluminmum - it all came out cleanly and left me with this:
    [​IMG]
    Just the outer skin left. I decided to use half inch pressure treated ply wood to replace. Glued the outer skin to the plywood after I painted the ply wood white to match the rest of the inside.
    [​IMG]
    Some clamps to hold things in place and some angle brackets and then replaced the bottom trim on the plywood. Next I had to replace the insulation in the roof:
    [​IMG]
    Then I used painted quarter inch luan to replace the ceiling with, replaced the right angle support bracket made of metal that runs the full width of the camper and put up the piece that holds the canvas; that was pretty much it. Used white exterior silicone to seal everything up during the whole process. Once the skirt goes back up around the ceiling it will look good as new, better than new.

    [​IMG]
    and lastly three things I'm looking forward to this year camping
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    family and beer!
     
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  2. Janetmac

    Janetmac Camping is a lifestlye and a hobby.

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    You did an AMAZING job! That looks AWESOME! thanks for sharing the picts.
     
  3. redfragglerocker

    redfragglerocker Jen & Mike, Andrew (8) and Justin (5)

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    WOW! That looks great!
     
  4. Dusty82

    Dusty82 Active Member

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    Excellent job! You can't even tell there was a repair done.
     
  5. nvfd114

    nvfd114 Failure to plan is a plan to fail.

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    Thanks yall; gonna finish painting my shepherds poles white, get a spare tire cover, gas bottle cover, and battery cover for some mods this summer. If I'm feeling really gung ho I may paint the exterior and put on new decals and pinstriping and maybe put in a 6 gal hot water heater.

    On the roof repair I had to drill holes in that new ply wood end board for the tail light wiring that is on the outside of the camper. You can see the outside of the camper in the post a few weeks ago referenced above.

    Thanks again
     
  6. br9

    br9 Member

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    Man that really is a great job.
     
  7. smoreking

    smoreking Member

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    Looks like you did a great job on that fix. I have a 1993 starcraft that I think needs a sideboard. Did you leave your roof on while you did your repair? Could you tell me since you just finished something like this how I should go about getting into the sideboard.

    Thanks
     
  8. nvfd114

    nvfd114 Failure to plan is a plan to fail.

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    I can try to help you; I am by no means an expert this is my first PU and my second year with it however I am somewhat handy. I did leave my roof on to do my repair; the board that was rotten was the rear end board. I am not sure you can replace the side boards without taking the roof off because the support lifting mechanism on mine is screwed directly to the sideboards. After the repair I did I do not think removing the roof would be that difficult. On mine it looks to be just take the canvas down and then the two screws on the top of the lift mechanism screwed to the side board. There are issues with the side boards being longer than 8 or 10 ft which is all the longer you will find plywood. That issue has been addressed in the roof repair forum elsewhere - there is info on here in regards to what type of joint you will need to create.

    To get into it I would remove the roof and then from the inside of the ceiling begin peeling the aluminum skin back and see what you find. Then go from there. You may not have to do anything with the outer skin but I'm not sure. Good luck post pics.
     
  9. Buddy Ter

    Buddy Ter New Member

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    Wow, great job! I hope I never have roof trouble but if I ever do I'll be using this post as a reference.
     
  10. Island Ranger

    Island Ranger New Member

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    You did a GREAT job there, ita amazing how these pups can be worked on at home & still look good.
    Thanks for posting the pics, might encourage others to have a go [:D]
     
  11. cam6camp

    cam6camp New Member

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    Thank you for sharing your work. This looks like what we need to do. I have a few questions. Did you have to unscrew anything from the outside before you removed the wood? How did you take the old wood off the aluminum frame? And where did you get new trimming? Only a few inches of our board is rotten, do you think it would be possible to only take out that part, glue in new wood, and use brackets to connect it to the old, good wood? What do you think?
    Thanks for your help in advanced. I am a bit scared to begin this project.
     
  12. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    Good job on the repair!

    Don't know about those spare tire and L/P tank covers ~ I have had some mice problems in the past, not that the critters ever got inside the camper (when it was brand new and first brought home I went over and re-sealed every inside crack and crevice, every incoming wire and L/P gas line hole), but they did like to nest in both the tire and the L/P tank covers, so I simply removed them.

    Let me ask a question about your thoughts on what was the cause of the water leak to begin with. In the case of my Starcraft it had the aluminum roof and necessary to re-seal the seams from time to time. I was meticulous on this maintenance and so far as I know the roof has been in tip top shape.
     
  13. Big_kid

    Big_kid Virginia Beach, VA

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    Great job!
     
  14. eve104

    eve104 Ol'Bessie

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    what kind of roof insulation did you use? plus (silly question coming)...what is LUAN???
     
  15. Dusty82

    Dusty82 Active Member

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    It's not a silly question at all. Luan (also spelled Lauan, and sometimes called Philippine Mahogany even though it's not really a mahogany, nor necessarily from the Philippines) is a species of wood usually used to make plywood. Most naturally finished interior hollow core house doors are made of luan plywood. It's available at most home centers, most commonly in 8' X 4' X 1/8th inch thick sheets, or in 40" X 6 1/2' X 1/8th inch thick "door skins," although other thicknesses are also available. It's relatively cheap, lightweight, and fairly strong. It's a pretty popular choice for things of this nature.
     
  16. nib114

    nib114 New Member

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    nice job, looks great. and it is possible to replace the side panel without removing the roof. while i`m not saying it`s the correct way to do it, i have done it by unsrewing the nuts from the inside then bracing the roof from the inside with blocks to take the load off that side of the roof and then unscrewed the rest from the outside. but also there are about a million staples in the thing around the top side holding it on. pulled it off used it as a template and made a new side using a 12 ft piece of pine that my buddy planed down to the width i needed an screwed it back in and reverse the order of disasembly. like i said not sure if it`s the right way to do it but it worked out well for me. hope it helps
     
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  17. Tekboy46

    Tekboy46 Member

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    Good job... that looks awesome. In answer to a question in this thread... I agree with nib114... yes you can work on end and side boards without removing the roof. I did this a few years ago to replace end boards. I put ice chests on the beds with towels folded and laid on top of them. No mattresses on the bunkends, and canvas was removed. I cranked the roof down until the ceiling was resting on the ice chests and was careful to place them so the ceiling lights wouldn't come down on the ice chests. When the roof was resting on the chests I cranked some slack in to the cables and this left the roof resting on the ice chests. You can then un-do the bolts and take the lift arms loose. They will slide down into themselves to leave you room to work. I replaced both end boards this way. When weather threatened I tarped the whole camper. I have no empty garage or outbuilding to work on the camper and this worked out well for me. I think this is a valid, safe way to replace side and end wood for someone that doesn't have the space or resources to take the roof completely off the camper.
     
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  18. marski

    marski New Member

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    I have a 93 Starcraft Comet and just finished replacing the side panels of the roof. I put 2 large cement blocks on the floor inside the camper and then used a small crank jack with a long piece of wood to stabilize and hold up the roof, we have an ac unit on the roof so it was heavy and needed support when off the 4 silver supports that hold up the roof --- Supporting the roof took a lot of tension off the side panels and made for easier work -- was able to get the wood side boards on, (used plywood and pieced about 8 inches at one end) covered them in white flashing (found at HD - the old particle board inside the side roof panels had glued themselves to the aluminum so the original aluminum was trash and had some rust on it). Getting the bottom trim rail back on the roof side panels was a real PITA... but with lots of patients and working slowly, we were able to get both pieces of aluminum (inside & outside) and the plywood back in the rail.... we have since reattached the lift arms (removed the temp support) and dropped the roof to be sure all was square and working correctly -- thank goodness all worked well cuz we were flying by the seat of our pants.....
    Now have to finish top trim on both sides and hopefully paint..... I removed all canvas to get the job done as the wood inside the front, back and side panels was like sawdust and having the canvas out of the way made for easier work... hopefully all will go back together and repairs will be done. Any suggestion for paint????
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2019
  19. Thelevs

    Thelevs New Member

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    was there room to cut out for a larger vent in the roof? need a replacement fast and nothing in 9x9 will ship for over a month
     
  20. JimmyComCom

    JimmyComCom New Member

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    I need a replacement roof vent as well. The flange is 11 1/2" X 11 1/2" and the actual vent itself is about 9"X9". I can't find anything in that size. Everything is 14" X 14". I wonder if I can just cut a bigger hole. Really wish I didn't have to do that.
     
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