Sorry Guys, The image links weren't working and I guess I only get so many cracks at modifying a post before it stops. Perhaps a moderator can do me a solid and delete the image descriptions a couple posts up where there are no pictures. PVC roof supports. I made these based off a suggestion from another thread. these were VERY unstable as the only thing holding these posts in place was the weight of the roof itself. I would recommend finding some other way of securing the roof when you are ready to remove the cables and lift posts. You do need something to support the roof. Once you remove the the cables from the posts they will free fall and if you don't have any support there the roof will collapse on you. When I went to reinstall the posts I realized why there was only one screw on the right side of each post bases. The cables travel down through the opposite side of the post (left side). If you put a screw on that side it would interfere with the path of the lift system. I put a 2nd screw through the center to hopefully help with the post stability. I found trying to create the loops on the cable around the post bolt themselves kind of tricky. I put a screw in my workbench to give me something I could pull the loop around that wouldn't move as cinched the hole tighter. It was much easier than trying to do it on the post laying on the table. Once I had the loop created I removed it from the table screw and put it on the lift post bolt and tightened it down with the nut. The top of the lift post had a seized bolt/t-nut combo that I couldn't release. I had to tear the t-nuts right out of the roof wall. Keep in mind if you are doing this you will need to sort out another method off re-attatching the top of the post to the roof wall as it is quite a disaster. The aftermath in the roof (t-nut torn out of roof wall, right hole) Again a seized bolt and t-nut. Bolt on left side I was able to cut off with grinding wheel (bolt was seized in T-Nut). I don't recommend using the cutting wheel if you can avoid it. It was a very tight space as I had the PVC supports holding roof only partially lifted (also quite unstable). I also had to remove the guard from the cutting wheel in order to get the proper angle on the bolt head. In hindsight it was very unsafe and I was working alone, very easily could have seriously injured myself via collapsing roof or contact with cutting wheel. Believe it or not, beyond your normal tools, this is almost all the hardware and tools required to do your entire lift system in these PU's. The only thing I reused from the old hardware was the large double channeled aluminium sleeves that coupled the two eye bolts and the specialty clips that grip the cable to the axles on the first wrap around. As mentioned by other people in this thread you can also replace that particular assembly with turnbuckles. Other things missing from this picture that you will need is Grade 2 grease, silicone gasket maker, a roll pin/punch set There is one specialty tool missing from the picture above that I would highly recommend tracking down and that is a set of wire rope/cable cutters. NOTE: Normal Wire cutters or side cutters and some other styles of cable cutters are NOT sufficient to do this job. You might get one or two cables cut with wire / side cutters but it requires quite a bit of effort and leaves the ends quite a bit more likely to fray. The wire rope / aircraft cables will dull your wire cutters beyond working after a couple cuts. You want to find wire rope cutters similar to what is pictured below. They cut super clean, which is important as all your cable ends need to feed through your aluminium sleeves. The sleeves are a tight fit so if you have a single piece of fray it can made the feed through challenging. This tool is not so important if you are using the u bolt and nut style crimps but I would still say$40 well spent. I'm sure you can find them cheaper if you looked around I just clicked on the first link I found to grab the picture. Can't recall what I paid for them 3 years ago.