Tongue Weight question

[Detroit_Iron]

let me start saying I’ve owned and towed this camper for over 7 years trouble free. This is just out of my own curiosity. The specs of my pop-up from the factory are

Dry weight. 2859
Gross weight 3750
Hitch weight 421

I’ve seen several posts that both say propane and batteries are/are not included in tongue weight. My camper came from the factory with 2 20lb propane tanks and a battery. Using the 13% rule on the dry weight is it safe for me to assume my 421 tongue weight is including the propane and battery? If not it would put me over the standard 500 tongue weight rating for class 1,2,3,4 receivers (camper does not allow for a WDH) I wouldn’t think any manufacturer would produce a pop up that you would need a class 5 receiver for.

 

[Toedtoes]

Their stated tongue weight is just over 10% of the gross trailer weight rating and just under 15% of the dry weight. They could have calculated it against either number.

For real life purposes, it is best to use the actual gross trailer weight (fully loaded and ready to go camping), get to 13%, drive it and check for handling, then increase or decrease tongue weight as needed for best handling.

 

[davido]

It's really easy to determine your actual tongue weight using equipment you probably already have around the house:

• A 2x8, about three feet long.
• Two large-diameter round dowels. If you don't have these, use two broom sticks. You don't even have to cut them. Or a couple of 1x1x6 strips of wood would be adequate.
• A bathroom scale.
• Another segment of either 2x6 or 2x4. Any length will do.
• A jack-stand or bottle jack or some other strong thing about 12-18 inches tall with a base broad enough to not fall over.

Does this make sense? Put the scale on one side, the 2x6 on the other, on the ground. Put the dowel on top running fore-aft. This allows the weight to distribute better. The 2x8 spans across the two dowels. The bottle jack sits on top of the 2x8. Now zero out the scale, and then lower the trailer's hitch coupler onto the jack.

If your contraption is spreading the weight correctly (ie, 50% on the left, 50% on the right), the scale will register exactly half of your tongue weight. If that's more than your scale can handle, then distribute the weight 1/3rd of the way from the left, 2/3rds from the right, and then multiply the registered weight by three instead of two.

(I tried to provide a diagram but the web editor here removed leading whitespace, so the diagram was worthless.)

 

[Sjm9911]

And dont forget , the added weight of the propane, etc , isnt all on the toung, the axel takes some of that also. So if your close better to weigh it.

 

[Sjm9911]

Something like this. I didnt watch the whole thing.

 

[GreyFox]

My camper came from the factory with 2 20lb propane tanks and a battery.

No it didn't - battery is always added at the dealer level, as is propane in the tanks. What you're quoting as "hitch weight" is the dry hitch weight of the trailer as it left the factory and is nowhere near the trailer's actual hitch weight. To know that you want to load the trailer as you would for a camping trip, weigh the trailer so you know what it's GVW (gross vehicle weight) typically averages, and weigh the tongue so you know what it's gross tongue weight typically averages. You want that gross tongue weight to gross trailer weight to average somewhere in the 13% to 14% range. Don't weigh either and you have no idea.

 

[Detroit_Iron]

No it didn't - battery is always added at the dealer level, as is propane in the tanks.

That’s kinda what I’m getting at, if the weight of the tanks and battery are on top of the 421 dry hitch weight I can assume my tongue weight will exceed the 500lb limit of my class 4 hitch, yes I understand to be sure I need to weight the actual tongue weight, plus the front storage compartment weight packed with stuff. If your over 500 and your camper does not allow for a WDH is a class 5 the only option? I feel like a 2 1/2” receiver is overkill for a pop up

 

[Detroit_Iron]

Like I said I towed this for 7 years trouble free, but that was at my own risk. This will be my last year with this camper as we will be going hardside for 2020. It’s garage kept and in immaculate shape. I would prefer to sell privately but I feel there’s a limited market for people looking for a pop up that need a half ton truck and class 5 receiver to tow it. Dealer trade in I won’t get nearly as much for it.

I’m just looking to be as knowledgeable as possible to be able to explain to someone that most likely show up in a mini van to buy a pop up why this isn’t the one for them.

 

[Dingit]

I believe a class 3 hitch receiver is good for up to 600 lbs.

I do, however, pull a popup with a class 5.

 

[Toedtoes]

Yep, class III is up to 600lbs.

https://www.reese-hitches.com/learning_center/general-towing-classes

My durango has a class IV even though it's max towing capacity is 6000lbs (they installed the IV standard to fit all the differences due to options).

When I bought my FnR, the PO had no problem turning people away who did not have a big enough rig.

 

[Detroit_Iron]

The 600lbs is interesting, I wonder if it’s my TV that’s limiting me. The class 4 on my F150 has a sticker on it saying 1150lbs max with WDH and 500lb max without

 

[GreyFox]

The 600lbs is interesting, I wonder if it’s my TV that’s limiting me. The class 4 on my F150 has a sticker on it saying 1150lbs max with WDH and 500lb max without

Hitch receiver ratings vary, my '12 Silverado's factory installed receiver is rated 5000 / 600 lbs WC and 10,500 / 1100 lbs WD.

 

[Sjm9911]

We have the same truck. Mine is a gmc.

 

[Toedtoes]

It could be the specifics of your truck. Even though my hitch is a class IV, I am limited to a lower tongue and trailer weight than it can handle because the vehicle's ratings are lower.

A bigger hitch can be added to the vehicle, but it won't increase the allowable weights above the vehicle max.

 

[dak2]

Detroit Iron if you are looking at the bumper at the weight rating, that is for the hole in the bumper under the plastic plug, you can put a ball in that hole. The class 4 hitch weight is not determined by that number.

 

[Dingit]

Well, yeah, ratings will vary. My truck has the same receiver that is OEM on some really big trucks so it has high ratings stamped into it, but my truck isn't all that. It's just one of the things to check.

The important takeaway here is that you aren't as screwed selling your popup conscientiously as you thought!