UAV-TT off-road build

Discussion in 'Checkout My Rig !' started by Silvrzuki77, Aug 8, 2014.

  1. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Hey guys, some of you know I had built a off-road teardrop on 35's to pull behind my Hummer H3T.
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    I had two little kids at the time and it was going to work out pretty good with them. Than we had a surprise baby. That's 3 boys! Teardrop was awesome just need something that can hold all of us and keep us warm. I grew up camping in a tent trailer and always liked them.
    So here is the new trailer!
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    2009 Starcraft 1701 8' box. Has a heater, fridge, 10 gallon water tank and electric water pump, stove, and exterior BBQ.
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    As most you know build quality of tent trailers suck! No one owns a tape measure at the manufacture I guess.
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    The first day I added about 80-100 screws all over, added about 15' of 1x2" poplar to interior cabinets and walls. Everything is much more ridged now, but still will get more bracing in the future. Ordered LED's for every single light on the camper.
    Okay to the interesting stuff Suspension
    The bad thing about this camper is how they ran the lift cables. It's not ran through the frame just bolted underneath.
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    Plan is to build a 2x3 subframe, new tongue, storage, and independent arms on airbags. Besides being neat it will keep the tires from flexing into the body.
    Going to flip the axle this week so I can use it in the mean time and start ordering parts. Here is the 35" tire next to the trailer stock height. Going to need a little modification
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  2. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    Did you see this one?
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    I didnt! Link?? Looks to be just spring over?
     
  4. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    It is sprung over with shackles. The post I got this from doesn't have any info.
    I reinforced all the cabinetry on our Starcraft 1701, too. We have a 2007, which I have been told was the last "good" year.
    Have fun modding your trailer!
     
  5. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Last good year? Gee thanks lol. I was looking for anything newer than 06 when they switched the roof material, which im not impressed with. The front and rear of the roof where it curves down sound crunchy when you press down on it like spray foam material? Besides the interior, I was surprised the main frame rails were boxed tube.
     
  6. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    The guy bought his (the one in the picture) because I told him the frames were built like tanks.
    One of the moderators on the Portal told me that 2007 was the last good year for almost all makes except Coleman/Fleetwood.
    I can't wait to see yours!
     
  7. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    See everything I was reading on multiple forums and sites said stay away from 06 and earlier because the roofs. The frame isnt bad on mine, 2x3 main rails and the tongue is beefy. But the places I am planning to take this have endless miles of washboard roads and rocky trails. Those tiny trailer springs are going to punish the body. Lots of fun!
    [emoji83]
    Do you have a picture of your frame?
     
  8. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    Here's the tongue.
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    The springs.
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    The brakes I put on.
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    I didn't take many of the underside, so I don't have them on photobucket.
     
  9. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Yeah looks identical mine.

    Well I flipped the springs at the moment. Need to get new perches this week to correct the bow in the stock axle.
    Trying to get the 35's to fit..... Either its going to be super tall or I need to drop tire size. I cant cut into the body because I will hit the furnace.
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    Borrowing my dads 285/75 R16 off his h3 tomorrow and see how that fits.

    Whats do you guys think? Trying to keep a LCG obviously. Frame is at 24" inches and top of the trailer would be around 6' lol.
     
  10. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    You can get perches at most axle shop, etc. Just weld them on. You'll have to reduce tire size...
    The stabilizers will need to be extended, too.
     
  11. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Yup too lazy to make new perches today. Im going to ditch these stabilizers and do a 4 point setup with something different.
     
  12. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Okay basically done for the day!
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    Fender screwed in! Need to do finish stuff obviously. Cut the military fender in half and took 3" out.
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    Going to have to remount my furnance farther back and I have a 1.5" each side of the furnace.
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    The lower kitchen sink area was put together like garbage soo im glad I pulled it apart. 35's will fit with more lift. Think obviously bump stops at full compression but once at camp dump the airbags to get it lower? 285's would probably be the best solution, and my dads rig has them so he would always have a spare if I couldnt patch the tire.
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  13. zjrog

    zjrog Member

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    Very cool. How far back are you pushing the axle so the tires clear the door?
     
  14. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    About 4-5 inches, i plan on adding a larger water tank behind the axle to help balance it out.
     
  15. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Little update...
    Finishing up the passenger side area. Moved the furnace back about 5" to clear the fender. Built a exterior panel to cover the original exhaust and intact. Will eventually paint it black.
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    Did the interior paneling. Added a 1/8th too much to the divider so I need to sand that down tomorrow and reattach the stove/sink for now.
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    Need to register it by this coming week then I will probably start the driver side fender.

    My newborn has been pretty good at night but my 2 year old has been waking up for the past 3 weeks around 1 am and being crazy for no reason. A little beat down and not motivated with out [emoji481].
     
  16. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Driver side is 80% done!!!!
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    Does anyone have ideas to bridge the gap between body and fender???
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  17. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    I'm thinking that you're looking for a sheetmetal drip cap. Miter the corners as required, some small stitch screws will hold it to the body or maybe use painted rivets instead of screws, use a thin bead of Marine goop on the top edge to keep water from getting in behind it and you'd have a nice finish that would facilitate water runoff.

    Off hand, I'd say you'd want a 1/2" vertical doubled over at the top where it'd fasten to the body, an 85 degree bend to give about a 1/4" drop as it comes out over the frame (is that about an inch?) then a 90 degree bend with a 1" run doubled over on the bottom edge.

    HomeDepot sells drip cap but the top edge would need to be folded over and the angles are wrong but this should give you an idea.

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    Take it to a sheet metal shop. They'll have a sheet metal brake big enough to bend what you need and they be more than happy to install it if that's what you want.

    The mitered corners and folded edges are what will make it look factory original but they can be tricky to do well, so if that's what you're after, have a pro do it.
     
  18. dcbain

    dcbain New Member

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    Another possibility if the fit is fairly good is VW Beetle (bug) plastic wing (fender) beading screwed and gooped into place. That will make it look like a pro job.
     
  19. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Thanks dubbya! I have a couple of shops near me that should be able to fabricate that. Have to see what they will qoute me. You are right though about having a pro do it!
     
  20. Silvrzuki77

    Silvrzuki77 New Member

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    Dcbain, going to have to do a search on that to get a idea.
     

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