The old Deka G31 had aged out to less than 80% capacity and I decided it was time for a new battery. I tried to figure out how to mount dual batteries without major reengineering on the tongue but finally gave up. I spent quite a bit of time researching batteries comparing capacities, weights and availability. I had been somewhat following lithium development over the last few years and finally decided that almost twice the capacity, in the same footprint and less than ½ the weight sounded too good. So, still telling myself that this could be one of the most foolish things that I ever did, I ordered a Battle Born 100AH battery from the manufacturer. The plastic battery box I had bought years ago was not even tall enough for the old Deka, and an even worse fit for the new bat. I had considered more secure battery storage for years and decided to move on that too. I looked at every metal battery box I could find online and found only two that are lockable without modification. My first choice would have been the RV Armor box from eTrailer. Single piece welded construction with an integrated padlock loop. But, their single battery box was only 13 inches long, ½ inch too short for my battery. It wouldn’t have fit the old G31 either. Their next biggest was 23 inches long and would not fit in the planned space. Torklift Power Armor has a 17 inch long box which just fit in the assigned space without obstructing the bunk supports. After thinking about if that extra 3 inches could be used for anything I decided to integrate a battery switch and a PowerWerx dual Anderson connector into the box. Flush mounting the switch requires a 2 5/16 inch hole. I drilled through the side of the box with a 2 ¼ inch hole saw and enlarged the hole with a coarse sanding drum on a Dremel until it just fit. I drilled a hole for the outlet with a 1 1/8 inch step bit and cleaned it up with the Dremel. My hands are not as steady as they used to be and I had a couple of slips with the Dremel so I hit that end of the box with a can of black Krylon that I keep for frame touchups. I used a cutting disc on the Dremel to cut the forward rail of the battery rack off the frame and smoothed out the old welds a bit with an angle grinder. I hit that with a good coat of Krylon and gave it overnight to dry. Two of the mounting holes in the box pretty well centered up on the frame rails so I used them to mark and drill a 5/16 hole through each frame rail. I then dropped ¼ in bolts through each to hold the box steady and drilled the forward holes through the box floor and the frame rail tops. I put ¼ inch plastic spacers, included, between the box and frame rails and bolted the box down using the included stainless ¼ inch bolts, washers and lock nuts. I used the spacers so that if there were a future need to replace the battery tie down strap I could do it without having to loosen the bolts. A couple of things about the TorkLift box I do not like. One is the exposed rivets inside the box that could rub against and damage the battery case. I put a piece of ¼ inch stock on both sides of the battery for a buffer but I really think this is a bad design and inexcusable at their price. And the included tie down strap with it’s plastic buckle is pretty flimsy, also inexcusable at this price point. I threw it away and and repurposed an NRS cam buckle kayak strap to replace it. It is a nice looking box but the neatness of the exterior is belied by the rat’s nest inside. I wanted to use a small fuse panel but I couldn’t figure out how to mount it so it would be accessible without actually sticking it to the top of the battery.