VIKING / IDT LIFT System

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by wely, Sep 2, 2014.

  1. wely

    wely New Member

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    Hello All,
    For all of you that straggling with the Viking IDT lift system like me, here is some materials I got from Viking related to that system.
    I haven't opened mine yet (just received the PDFs today) but will post update as I go.

    Email as received from Viking parts:
    Attached are the breakdowns I have for the IDT lift system and replacement
    instructions for the universal main tube part number 1039705 MAIN TUBE ASSY, IDT UNIVERSAL REPLACEMENT dealer price $ 560.00
    As for parts from the bumper up, if your crank handle shaft has a square end you have the older wench system
    and parts are no longer available. You would need to order the parts listed below to up date your camper.
    If your crank handle shaft has a round end, the up date has been done and you can order any of the parts listed
    below to repair your system.
    Updated IDT lift system parts for the waist high crank assy:
    991000 BRACKET ASSY, LOWER WAIST HIGH IDT LIFT SYSTEM dealer price $ 13.68
    1021407 CRANK ASSY, WAIST HIGH BEARING POWER KIT READY IDT dealer price $ 172.30
    1000758 SPROCKET, 16 TOOTH IDT LIFT SYSTEM Dealer price $ 18.58
    1000749 CHAIN, 50" IDT LIFT SYSTEM Dealer price $ 39.44
    1041869 HANDLE, CRANK ASSY HEAVY DUTY IDT LIFT (Round Shaft) Dealer price $ 76.40
    Sorry, I know these prices are very high, this system was not used in production so they have never been ordered
    in large quantities.

    Also the PDF's are uploaded but no clue how to attach them to this post.
     
  2. wely

    wely New Member

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    Took out the lift system of the pup today and that is how it looks like. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    The front gear that move the front roof up had a broken teeth (14t) and the brake stop latch inside the muster tube if broken too.
    Now time to go for parts shopping or made. Will post update soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Any luck finding parts?

    If not, there's a chance that a fabrication shop might be able to fix or make what you need.

    Failing that, most folks recommend swapping out the IDT system for a Goshen lift.
     
  4. wely

    wely New Member

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    Hi Dubbya,
    Was lucky enough to find the last two gears at the dealer for 40$.
    The machine shop quote me 280$ to make only 2 gears.
    Replaces the gears and fixed the internal brake and back in business again under 100$.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. vikingscourge

    vikingscourge New Member

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    I am doing a repair on a 2005 Viking Epic with an IDT lift system. I found bits of information scattered about the internet, and will attempt to provide a synopsis here for anyone else with a broken IDT lift. To confirm you have IDT, look for a long skinny aluminum housing connected to your crank shaft, and chances are it still has the IDT (Innovative Design Technologies LLC) sticker on it.

    When I first broke the lift, I went to an RV repair shop that told me, like so many others, that IDT is irreparable and must be replaced with a Goshen system for $1500+. THIS IS FALSE. Don't let them rip you off. I left thinking there HAS to be another way, and there is.

    Most Vikings use a Goshen lift system, but around 2004-06 Viking went to IDT. There was a recall, IDT went bankrupt, and Viking switched back to Goshen. L&W Engineering picked up IDT's technology and provided parts support for IDT systems up to a couple years ago. I spoke to Forest River>Coachmen>Viking parts support and the ONLY place to get IDT parts now is Canvas Replacements in Wisconsin. They have their IDT parts stock listed on EBay:
    http://stores.ebay.ca/canvasreplacements/?_dmd=2&_nkw=idt
    Or, you can contact canvasreplacements.com - They do not list IDT on their own website, so call 800-232-2079 to inquire.

    During my casting about for help, I got lucky and got these instructions from Bill at Vellner Leisure Products. Kudos to Bill - even though he couldn't sell me the parts, he got me helpful info regardless. Files attached here.

    The IDT lift system is actually quite clever, as long as nothing goes wrong. If it does, then chances are the entire system needs to be removed to identify the source of the problem. Don't let that put you off, though. The entire thing will easily drop out the bottom of the trailer. Follow these steps for removal:
    1) Steady the trailer by deploying the corner jacks. May want to use extra tall blocking to lift it more, making it easier to crawl under.
    2) MOST IMPORTANT: Take the weight off of the lift system posts. Ideally, lower the roof to fully down position. If not possible, support the roof well with braces/blocks/hoist/what have you.
    3) Remove the eight 1/2" bolts that hold the spring tubes to the corners, two at each corner.
    4) Remove the screws holding the four tubes to the master tube housing
    5) Remove the two screws connecting the drive shaft to the master tube
    6) Unbolt the master tube housing from the frame of the trailer - everything will drop down!
    7) Pull the springs out from each corner
    Later, reverse these steps to re-install.

    Now, take the master tube assembly apart by removing the end caps, and the internals of the master tube assembly (inside the aluminum housing) will slide out the ends. Chances are, there's something broken in the assembly.

    Inside the housing is a set of two counter-rotating worm gears connected by gears at one end. There is a fancy nylon acme nut riding along each worm gear, connected to push springs that slide through the tubes out to each corner and push on the square posts. One slider/gear set for the front corners, one for the back. The push springs don't actually extend/retract, they just needed something bendy to make the turn upward at each corner.

    Inspect all the internals carefully. In my case, the nut holding the two worm gears in place lengthwise was stripped, allowing the two little drive gears connecting the worm gears to get out of alignment. The gear teeth were worn. I'm pretty sure they were jumping while I cranked, thereby allowing uneven lift front/back. Also, one of the push springs was detached from the nylon acme nut. Finally, the tips of two of the push springs were bent.

    I bought 2 new drive gears and an acme nut, replaced/rethreaded the stripped nut/bolt, and straightened the push springs by heating with a blowtorch. Parts cost around $150 including shipping. With about 1/2 day removal, 1/2 day reassembly and a couple days waiting for parts delivery, the effort was well worth it.
    With a reasonably equipped garage and some persistence, anyone mechanically inclined can take this on. Good luck!
     

    Attached Files:

  6. beardogg

    beardogg New Member

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    Thanks for the encouragement to take this rebuild on. I have some questions.
    First, I'd like to know how the whole system works? What things are moving and braking and when? The nut inside the the main housing tube on mine was also stripped and I don't know how tight to make it. There appears to be a gap even when tight. Also where should the acme nuts be located at the initial setup to allow for correct front to back lift?
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2017
  7. vikingscourge

    vikingscourge New Member

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    Hi beardogg,
    Glad you are taking this on.
    Everything inside the housing moves together. For the stripped nut, add enough washers or another nut so when snug the two gears align front to back.
    Spin the nylon bushings to an equal distance from the end of the worm gears, say half an inch. Reinstall and check for simultaneous lift at all 4 corners. If you positioned the bushings wrong then lift will be uneven front to back. Good luck!
     
  8. beardogg

    beardogg New Member

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    Vikingscourge,
    Thanks for responding. I'd hate to get this far and not get everything right reassembling so now I'd appreciate your thoughts on lubrication throughout. Especially where the main drive gear enters the end cap, should the brake assembly (little gear sandwiched between two washers and brake paw) stay dry for friction purposes? And how about the main worm gears? Also should the springs be greased?
    Thanks again.
     
  9. vikingscourge

    vikingscourge New Member

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  10. vikingscourge

    vikingscourge New Member

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    I'd put a dab on the gears inside the box while you're at it. Generously grease the springs as this is where most of the friction happens.
     
  11. beardogg

    beardogg New Member

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    When they rerofitted these units with the secondary braking system on the bumper, did they intend to use both braking systems simultaneously? Or is the bumper system enough by itself?
     
  12. Mykah

    Mykah New Member

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    Hello to all and grateful to see other who have taken this repair on. I have a 2008 Palomino Bronco-600 truck camper that will not go square when the roof is raised. Front left telescopic post will raise WAY too high, and the three others will not raise high enough. Was able to raise the roof incrementally with 15" and 20" wood supports, and made the roof square. Kept cranking thinking it would reset the tension in the springs. Tried to close the roof and the front left is still 12" high, while the other corners can be forcibly closed. The lift system is sticker with L&W (or previously IDT). Thinking we will have to open up the master tube and reset the springs. Will document the repair.
     
  13. Miketjoseph

    Miketjoseph New Member

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    Hi. I have my main tube assembly completely apart. Curious about the brake mechanism inside, what engages and disengages it? Just worried I will put this whole thing back together and the brake system will not work properly!
     
  14. Firecaptn2

    Firecaptn2 New Member

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    Is anyone needing drawings, instructions on the IDT lift system, I have dealt with this lift system on my pop up and have additional information if needed. Contact me, as file is to large to post.
    Email me @ 185valentine@gmail.com
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019
  15. Sadiesmom

    Sadiesmom New Member

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  16. Sadiesmom

    Sadiesmom New Member

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    I would like any info/advice/diagrams or photos you have on the repair of this system. I believe I have the same system that needs repairing. All 4 corners go up fine, but have to pull the back two corners down manually in order to close all the way. My email is tvralston@tds.net if you can send there. Any help would be appreciated!! Thank you in advance.
     
  17. FrobyPup

    FrobyPup New Member

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    For FireCapt2, if your able to forward those pdf's and such I would really appreciate. I am look at rebuilding or spicing up my IDT system on my 2005 Viking Legend 2465st, it is a monster to hand crank up, and I don't even have a roof air. Any feedback from anyone also would really be appreciated.
     
  18. FrobyPup

    FrobyPup New Member

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    Firecaptn2, my email for you to send those files is fgilleland@gmail.com, I really appreciate that you have that extra information starting on my disassembly today. Thanks
     
  19. Dannyt123

    Dannyt123 New Member

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    I could sure used a set of drawings and instructions if you have them. I'm going to attempt a repair within the next couple of days. My email is dtracq@gmail.com. Thanks for sharing the info!
     
  20. FrobyPup

    FrobyPup New Member

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    Dannyt123, what model unit do you have. Mine is a Legend 2465ST, 2005.
     

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