Weight distribution

I disagree on the "you should be ok" part of this reply. There is no way that I would consider towing this without a WDH. Steering and braking are definitely going to be affected once the back end of his vehicle drops. It's just not worth the risk as far as safety is concerned. Maybe I'm more cautious than others but when it comes to putting myself or others at risk I take it as priority number one. The op should find a way to acquire a proper hitch before even attempting to take the trailer home. Just my

 

. Jash1178 read your manual for your TrailBlazer, as I found out in my research some SUVs (mine is one of them) cannot use a WDH. So this may also be a problem if your vehicle falls in the same category. For your sake, hopefully not.

 

You can get a WDH from harbor freight too that will work. If you can afford it please get even a cheap unit. the issue here is your TV weight is low enough that you will face sway conditions with the front end so light on the highway. You will also experience chatter and wallowing in the front end as the front end lightens up.

is there no way you can borrow a friends truck or something for now ?.

My tundra has a front lift and already 100k so the rear shock were shot. so even with a expensive wdh [the dealer wanted 1000 till i showed him i can get it online for 500- then he sold it for 500] the ride was horrible. till i put HD rear shocks, airbags to counter the front lift kit. i run my airbag very low as add on support to the shock as my TT is 7500 and the cab has 4 adults and a big dog .

 

I picked up a used but nice WDH made by Reese with sway control. 10,000 pound weight limit...I think Im good. Thanks all for the input.

 

I found this is my manual for my TV:

If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh more than 4,000 lbs. (1 816 kg), be sure to use a properly mounted, weight-distributing hitch and sway control of the proper size. This equipment is very important for proper vehicle loading and good handling when you’re driving

 

Glad to hear you made this decision! Second guessing just doesn't cut it when it comes to safety!

 

I saw 2 tall propane tanks, one A/C mounted on roof and many more feature inside the camper. not a dry weight.

Let's treat dry weight as FAKE News. ( gonna start a thread on Fake News now)

 

You saw pics of Jash's not ours..... Ours actually was 15Lbs under the listed dry weight when we hit the scales on the way home. Empty propane tanks with a battery.

Durham.... My statement is about him getting the camper home, and I did recommend him getting a WDH.
I understand his position and concerns and glad to see he found a WDH he could acquire.
His truck is rated to handle the weight, little closer to the upper limits but hes not overloaded.

 

Would be good if jash1178 posts his towing experience when he gets it home.

 

excellent demonstration.. thank you

 

Take this with a grain of salt.....

I've seen the first video, many times, and take issue with it. It's a hypothetical trailer where the wheels are equidistant from the back of the trailer and where it connects to the tow vehicle. Weight distribution on a trailer isn't purely about throwing as much weight at the front of the trailer as possible. It's about having weight over the trailer axle, and having enough forward bias to have some downward force. The first video is an over exaggeration - with a 2,000lb pop up, it would be like throwing 1500lbs+ directly on the furthest point back on the trailer. I say this because it's, in effect, the video is showing what happens when the 'fulcrom' is in the middle and all of the weight is rear biased - in order to do that you have to add a massive amount of weight to a real life trailer.

The second video was, interesting, at best. Once again, it shows an improperly weighted trailer.

I don't know how heavy that weight was, but it was enough to put 1,000lb on the trailer jack raised up (meaning, as you lower it on to the car, weight will transfer forward, making the tongue weight actually more than 1,000lb on the vehicle). Also take note, the weight was placed in front of the front most axle.

The second video was done by a company that designs, engineers, and sells weight distribution/hitch/trailer parts. It would be like a focus video of why McDonalds is better to eat at than Burger King, and oh yeah, McDonalds paid for the video and used employees in it.

What isn't mentioned in the 2nd video, is simply moving the weight backwards on the trailer, just enough, would have the same (or better) effects on the tow vehicle, and still being safe about it.

What also isn't mentioned in the 2nd video is that the air bags could be increased to 10, 15, 20psi - not as an intent to raise the back up, but to give better rear suspension control back. You need to remember, unloaded the suspension will have an effect driving down the road. Throw 1,000lb of gravel in the bed of the truck, now the rear suspension has to work significantly more with the sprung weight on it. Air bags aren't just for 'lifting' - it removes that sprung weight from the suspension.

Now, on our 2001 Lexus LX470 I recently added air springs.... not as a means to 'lift' the rear (although it will happen), but it's to assist and compliment the hydraulic suspension that already exists. I can use Techstream/laptop to determine the rear hydraulic pressure at each corner without a trailer on it, then add the trailer - then add air to the springs to bring the rear suspension pressure back in line where it was before. That isn't about raising or lowering the vehicle height, as the video insinuates.

Moral of either video should actually be - load the trailer weight properly in a real world situation, have the equipment and know how necessary for the needs of what you're towing.

 

eh? if one put weight solely on axle only it will sway because the front and rear has same weight. My popup swayed and was fixed because I moved a microwave from rear to front thus causing front to be heavier than rear. We can't argue with proof we saw on video. All we need to do is redistribute the existing weight of stuff in popup to make towing safe. that is all and it is not really that complicated.

 

None of what you said is related to my comment, and maybe you don't understand the weight dynamics/effects I'm talking about. First video is an unrealistic "trailer" and second video withholds information because they are trying to sell their product.

What I, in short, said is that you need most of your weight over the trailer axles with a forward bias. (talking 5th wheels is different)