What could constantly be draining my new battery?

Discussion in 'Power - Site Power/Batteries/Generators/Solar' started by grsparty, Apr 17, 2019.

  1. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Active Member

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    80 milli-amps non stop
     
  2. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Active Member

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    Totally True - I got a free maintenance free battery of that voltage - it never came back to life
     
  3. MNTCamper

    MNTCamper Active Member

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    I highly recommend installing a battery disconnect switch near your battery so that you can simply disconnect it when not camping. There are many to choose from and (ebay, amazon...) and they work great. It keeps you from manually having to disconnect all the time and as noted, the gas detector will drain the battery.
     
  4. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    And when you get another battery,,,,don't depend on a trickle charger to maintain it. A trickle charger will boil a battery. You want a maintainer, like a Battery Tender.
     
  5. grsparty

    grsparty New Member

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    I wondered about this when I first checked it. Yes, I am sure I checked it correctly with my multimeter. Now, I’ll have to do some research on what to buy. Group 24, 27, 31 versus 6v in a series, or AGM blah, blah, blah.

    I feel like I’m going to get overwhelmed quickly....
     
  6. grsparty

    grsparty New Member

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    Yes, battery tender is what I have.
     
  7. tenttrailer

    tenttrailer Art & Joyce - Columbus, O

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    +2, The specs on most of these trickle chargers there is a low voltage limit. If the battery is at or below a certain voltage the charger will not even try to charge.

    Propane detector. On many campers it's on all the time. I had a popup I would remove the fuse that the detector was on when storing the camper. Most detectors will chirp a few times when the voltage is removed. Try removing all the wires on either the negative or negative terminal and see what it does.
     
  8. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Although I suppose there may be an exception out there somewhere it would be more accurate to say of any trailer manufactured in at least the last 25 yrs that the propane detector (more commonly these days a combo CO/LP detector) would be hard wired into the trailer's 12 vdc system and would be on all the time. If one doesn't plug the trailer into shore power while it's being stored so the converter can maintain the battery charge or doesn't disconnect the battery when no shore power is available, either physically or with a disconnect switch, then the detector alone can over the course of a couple of weeks absolutely draw that battery down to the point where it's been destroyed.
     
  9. MNTCamper

    MNTCamper Active Member

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    On the battery side, I can recommend a good group 31 deep cycle. I got mine at Sam's club, Duracell (which is East Penn). $80 on sale. I can go 10 days with no hookups.
     
  10. Brett1962

    Brett1962 New Member

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    CO/LP detector and Radio is always drawing off mine unless I remove the in-line fuses.
    **Go for the maintainer for the battery!!
     
  11. grsparty

    grsparty New Member

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    I think a group 31 is a tad big for my needs. Majority of my camping, I’ll be hooked up. I’ll probably go for a 27 with a small Zamp solar panel.

    I have a battery tender. Good to go now that I know I need to disconnect.
     
  12. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Did your dealer not go over this when you got your orientation for your new camper? Should have - now you know why. ;)
     
  13. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    Two trailers and no mention from either dealer about it.. I found out by asking others..
     
  14. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Same answer - should have, now you know why. ;)
     
  15. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    disconnect the neg side first the the pos. reconnect the pos side first then the neg.
     
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  16. WingmanHG

    WingmanHG Member

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    FDB5B8BE-7BD3-485A-86E1-299218ACC8F1.jpeg

    A lead acid battery will self discharge ~5% per month just sitting on a shelf. I’d charge it up and do a test run see if it’ll run your lights and fans long enough for you. (Btw switch everything to LEDs it’s a cheeep solution to extend battery life) or after your tender says it’s charged and good to go take it to any auto parts store and they’ll test it for you. It’s probably damaged but may still be serviceable for a camping season or 2. But definitely put on a master shut off switch so u only loose that ~5% a month. I out mine right at the battery in the top of the battery box
     
  17. grsparty

    grsparty New Member

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    They did not, probably to get me back in to buy a freaking new battery. [:(!]
     
  18. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    I still think that people "designing" campers do not camp in them. If so, they would all have a battery disconnect switch. They also, do not read reviews on their products.
     
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  19. eoleson1

    eoleson1 Well-Known Member

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    Is that battery box something you bought, or something you created?
     
  20. WingmanHG

    WingmanHG Member

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    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GH11MO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

    This is the battery box i used. I put a kill switch between the + terminal on the battery and the + post on the box.

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07413JWLD?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

    I put a simple on off 2 position switch between the + side of my battery tender and the battery

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07894CFCR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D28XPKV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
     
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