wheel bearings - why so "bad"?

Discussion in 'On The Road' started by fun4dad2, Sep 10, 2015.

  1. sawdusty

    sawdusty San Antonio

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    I doubt than anyone pulling a pup would have been so fortunate. I can't figure out why there is so much debate about this issue. I want to have the assurance that I won't cause a problem that not only affects my family, the time and money I have invested in my pup, but also those I could injure.
     
  2. terry1419

    terry1419 Active Member

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    I'm also not sure why there is so much debate about this topic but most likely for a different reason from yours. Go back to the OP's (fun4dad2) first post. IMHO, he is spot on. I’ll try to enlighten you. You have a PM.
     
  3. redneckgearhead

    redneckgearhead New Member

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    Re: wheel bearings - why so "bad"?

    Death wish????

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
     
  4. Haybale

    Haybale I'd rather be camping!!

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    I repack the bearings at purchase and again before any multi state trips at minimum!! I have the same can of grease, about 10% left, and cotter pins are $0.07.... I'd much rather repack the bearings to much then not enough.

    Don't ask people who have never had an issue how often they pack their bearings, ask the people who have had a wheel fly off or a bearing fail causing havoc how often they serviced their bearings???
     
  5. silvermickey2002

    silvermickey2002 Morris County, NJ

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    Every Spring I will inspect the brakes on the pup. Mostly they just need to be cleaned and adjusted slightly. While doing this job it just makes sense to me to clean, inspect the bearings and repack them. I figure since I have to remove the outer bearings anyway, why not! It adds another 15-20 minute to each wheel to do the job. No big deal, but that's what I do! We go on long trips every other year. These long trips are between 3,000 - 7,000 miles round trip. I just don't want to be that family on the side of the road with damaged bearing on their camper!
     
  6. 00 Quad Cab

    00 Quad Cab Member

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    I am a repack every season kind of person. You can argue it all day long.

    Just a glimpse of background, I was a heavy equipment operator for 9 years and ran a shop managing and working on all the equipment for the same company for 3 years ( 10 wheel loaders, 8 excavators, 18 trucks and 65 + other pieces of equipment.) I now sell heavy trucks parts and see what lack of maintenance does to an owner/operator.

    I don't want to be that one person that is sitting on the side of the road or "lucky" enough to make it to our campsite only to be doing repairs and maintenance that could have been done before we left. I would rather spend my time here at home than wasting what little quality time I have at the campsite working on our pup.

    Just my .02 cents, take it for what it's worth.
     
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  7. Whiteycracker

    Whiteycracker Active Member

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    I have grease zerks under my dust cap...Does this mean I need to re-pack every year or whenever? Or just refill the bearings via the grease zerks? TIA
     
  8. Lloyd B

    Lloyd B Active Member

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    You can use the zerks, if they are Dexter Easy Lube, they work very well, just use a good wheel bearing grease, and check to make sure the seals are in good shape and not allowing grease to get on the brakes. You still need to jack up the hub and check the bearings by spinning the wheel and checking for play, if they need adjustment, you should take them apart and check the bearings and races.
     
  9. bob barnes

    bob barnes Well-Known Member

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    I would prefer my good old mechanic!!!
     
  10. lostboy

    lostboy Active Member

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    Same here but different reason...even after a repack. Turned out my brake controller was a bit to high and the driver side catches brake first. Dialed back the controller and all is good now. Warm every stop but not hot.

    I had my bearings repacked and new tires put on this spring for peace of mind. Now I know when they were last done and what condition they are in.
     
  11. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    You need to adjust your brake shoes, not your controller.
     
  12. lostboy

    lostboy Active Member

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    Nope, my brakes were grabbing with to much force to early because the controller was set up for a much heavier trailer and thus the trailer was stopping the tow vehicle as well as the trailer. Per my RV guy the drivers side receives input first then the signal goes to the passenger side which is why the drive side was getting warmer than the other.

    Trailer still stops great with the lower settings and no warm hub.
     
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  13. JimmyM

    JimmyM Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    That is the biggest load of garbage. Your RV guy has no idea what he's talking about. "Signal goes to the driver's side first."
    The brakes are electrically wired in parallel. They both get voltage at the same time.
    Adjusting your controller will have no affect on which side gets power first.
    Unless you have a wiring problem with a big voltage drop. Which he wouldn't know without getting under the unit with a meter.
     
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  14. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    I would be shopping for another RV guy
     
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  15. lostboy

    lostboy Active Member

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    You could totally be correct but his suggestion fixed the issue and he crawled under, looked around, jacked it up to insure all was correct free of charge.

    This is the wiring diagram I looked at after coming home which made me think he was correct. Blue line goes to drive side first then over to passenger side. Again, I am just repeating the info given but I did look it up after he told me. Sorry if it was bad info.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2017
  16. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    You probably have little to no braking on the passenger side now. Buy a 10 buck contact thermometer from Harbor Freight. After a drive and using the brakes, check your hub temp. They should warm and about the same....i bet your passenger side will be cool.
     
  17. JimmyM

    JimmyM Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    The wiring diagram might suggest that the driver's side "gets it first" but they literally get the power at the exact same time (barring speed of electricity in wire). The only thing that could affect one side getting more power is if there is a large voltage drop between the left and right sides causing the passenger side to get lower voltage and deliver less power to the magnet. But adjusting your controller would have no affect on that. Brake wire is at least 14 gauge. That will carry 15A easily. the 4 brakes on my HTT draw less than that. I think the spec is ~3.5A each. So you're only looking at the voltage drop of 3.5A (one magnet) over ~14ft of wire (width of pup x 2). That works out to 0.12V drop. (edit: adjusted length in online calculator. It already adjusted to a round trip)
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2017
  18. bob barnes

    bob barnes Well-Known Member

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    Yes you have it right!!!
     
  19. JimmyM

    JimmyM Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    How so? Please explain.
     
  20. soft 17

    soft 17 Active Member

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    Glad I have sealed wheel bearings! No packing them at all.
     

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