Which side for manual crank handle?

[RhythmScience]

I'm getting ready to order a Goshen DLB1200 manual winch to replace the aging electric winch that operates the Goshen lift system on my 2013 Palomino Y-series 4127. I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice as to which side I should put the crank on. It sounds like I can either order the "right-handed" winch that puts it on the passenger side or the left-handed winch that puts it on the driver side. I've got about the same clearance on both sides (see photo). The wire used to indicate the correct roof height is on the front passenger-side corner, so it would be easier to see while winching from the driver side. Are there other considerations of which I should be aware? I'm right-handed, if that makes any difference. It looks like HannaRV.com only sells the right-hand version, but PopupParts.com asks which one you want when ordering.

Thanks!

Left-right winch clearance

• RhythmScience
• Jul 26, 2021

 

[Grandpa Don]

I replaced my electric winch with a manual winch from Goshen about two years ago. I crank mine from the passenger side so I can keep an eye on the height cable. That is, assuming your height cable is on the passenger side. I didn't know you could put it on the driver's side. Besides, my winch cover already had the hole for the manual handle. It was an easy install. I then purchased a cordless Dewalt 1/2 inch 12volt Max drill with an adapter to raise the top and lower the stabilizers. Look into getting one of those next. You won't be sorry!

I just re-read your post. You say the cable is on the passenger side, but it would be easier to see from the Driver's side. Best thing to do is call Goshen. They have the best prices and the best winch for a particular application.

 

[Greg H]

I just did exactly the same thing a week ago (and got the winch/crank from Hanna RV as well). The main gear on the electric winch stripped out in one spot just prior to a trip, so we had to use our tent (grrr...). As another poster mentioned, Goshen will tell you which one you need based on your pop up model. My wire is on the passenger side, but the passenger side winch crank was still recommended. My setup looks similar to yours; and frankly I think you could almost certainly use either left or right hand model without issue. BTW, taking out the electric winch and installing the manual one took less than an hour. A quarter of that time was me being really anal retentive about using the smallest possible hole saw in exactly the right place for the crank handle (still had to cut a slightly bigger one lol)

 

[Grandpa Don]

When you order your winch, give some thought to the length of the crank handle. There were two different length to choose from, at least from Goshen. I had no idea which to get, so I just ordered the shorter one. When I installed the winch, I found that when I cranked the handle it was passing extremely close to my Propane tank. On a couple of occasions I scraped my finger on the tank... which hurt. So I ordered the long crank handle (12 inches) and just kept the shorter one as a spare. In the photo it looks like the shorter handle will hit your tank just as mine did. Get the longer one...!

 

[Greg H]

When you order your winch, give some thought to the length of the crank handle. There were two different length to choose from, at least from Goshen. I had no idea which to get, so I just ordered the shorter one. When I installed the winch, I found that when I cranked the handle it was passing extremely close to my Propane tank. On a couple of occasions I scraped my finger on the tank... which hurt. So I ordered the long crank handle (12 inches) and just kept the shorter one as a spare. In the photo it looks like the shorter handle will hit your tank just as mine did. Get the longer one...!

you can always cut down the longer handle if it's unwieldy, but agreed - this setup looks almost identical to mine, and I wouldn't want a shorter handle.

 

[Grandpa Don]

you can always cut down the longer handle if it's unwieldy, but agreed - this setup looks almost identical to mine, and I wouldn't want a shorter handle.

I think the shorter crank is something like 8 inches long, and the one I got is 12 inches long. I think those are the only two choices. Go long... !

 

[RhythmScience]

Thanks for all the awesome advice. I just got off the phone with Goshen--they were very helpful. Apparently, the left-hand winch is mostly for the Dutchman campers. I went ahead and ordered the winch and handle from them: $133 plus $22 shipping to Maryland. I went with the standard right-hand winch. The handles come in three lengths: 9", 10", and 12". Based on advice, I went with the 12". As Greg H noted, I can always cut it shorter if length is an issue.

I'm very much looking forward to getting this thing swapped out before my next trip so that I'm sweating as the roof goes up out of physical exertion rather than worry that the winch will fail!

 

[Annunzi]

I replaced my electric winch with a manual winch from Goshen about two years ago. I crank mine from the passenger side so I can keep an eye on the height cable. That is, assuming your height cable is on the passenger side. I didn't know you could put it on the driver's side. Besides, my winch cover already had the hole for the manual handle. It was an easy install. I then purchased a cordless Dewalt 1/2 inch 12volt Max drill with an adapter to raise the top and lower the stabilizers. Look into getting one of those next. You won't be sorry!

I just re-read your post. You say the cable is on the passenger side, but it would be easier to see from the Driver's side. Best thing to do is call Goshen. They have the best prices and the best winch for a particular application.

Grandpa D: Where did you get the adapter to fit your drill? My powered lift system is on the way out (retracts a few inches when fully raised), so i'm going to make this mod soon. I don't trust that power lift, especially when DW hops in the trailer before I get the safety rails on the posts in!

 

[Grandpa Don]

Grandpa D: Where did you get the adapter to fit your drill? My powered lift system is on the way out (retracts a few inches when fully raised), so i'm going to make this mod soon. I don't trust that power lift, especially when DW hops in the trailer before I get the safety rails on the posts in!

If you are going with the standard Goshen manual winch then this is the adapter I use. The drill is a 1/2 inch drive Dewalt 20 Volt Max cordless drill. I searched the web for a link to the drill I have, but I couldn't find one. The kit I got was only $100.00 and it came with the drill, two batteries, a charger and a carrying case. I think it was on special or something. DO NOT get the Hammer or impact drill. You will do damage to your system if you use that type of drill. Mine has two speeds. You have to use the slow speed. But even then it will raise the top of my camper in about 10 seconds. This adapter will also work on my stabilizer jacks. But the BAL leveler takes a 3/4 inch socket. My cousin has a Coleman Westlake with a much heavier top than my Viking. We both have an A/C unit on top. This drill will also raise his top in nothing flat. The thing is so powerful that it will break your wrist if you are not careful. Hold on to that sucker when you pull the trigger.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Socket-Jenie-Used-To-Raise-PopUp-Roof-p/lvsg-625.htm

 

[Annunzi]

Thanks Grandpa D, I have the exact same drill that I use for my stabilizer jacks, so hopefully it will do the trick with my heavy roof (unit has a 14' box with AC).

@RythmScience - I hope your install goes well, and 12" always works better than 8"....

 

[Greg H]

Good luck! I think the only thing that can realistically be mucked up during the install is attaching the cable correctly (ie: safely). Lots of videos on YouTube if you’re unsure.

Thanks for all the awesome advice. I just got off the phone with Goshen--they were very helpful. Apparently, the left-hand winch is mostly for the Dutchman campers. I went ahead and ordered the winch and handle from them: $133 plus $22 shipping to Maryland. I went with the standard right-hand winch. The handles come in three lengths: 9", 10", and 12". Based on advice, I went with the 12". As Greg H noted, I can always cut it shorter if length is an issue.

I'm very much looking forward to getting this thing swapped out before my next trip so that I'm sweating as the roof goes up out of physical exertion rather than worry that the winch will fail!

 

[Grandpa Don]

Thanks Grandpa D, I have the exact same drill that I use for my stabilizer jacks, so hopefully it will do the trick with my heavy roof (unit has a 14' box with AC).

@RythmScience - I hope your install goes well, and 12" always works better than 8"....

Use the slow speed to raise the top and you shouldn't have any trouble. My cousin Mikey raises the top on this Coleman Westlake without any trouble.

 

[RhythmScience]

If you are going with the standard Goshen manual winch then this is the adapter I use. The drill is a 1/2 inch drive Dewalt 20 Volt Max cordless drill. I searched the web for a link to the drill I have, but I couldn't find one. The kit I got was only $100.00 and it came with the drill, two batteries, a charger and a carrying case. I think it was on special or something. DO NOT get the Hammer or impact drill. You will do damage to your system if you use that type of drill. Mine has two speeds. You have to use the slow speed. But even then it will raise the top of my camper in about 10 seconds. This adapter will also work on my stabilizer jacks. But the BAL leveler takes a 3/4 inch socket. My cousin has a Coleman Westlake with a much heavier top than my Viking. We both have an A/C unit on top. This drill will also raise his top in nothing flat. The thing is so powerful that it will break your wrist if you are not careful. Hold on to that sucker when you pull the trigger.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Socket-Jenie-Used-To-Raise-PopUp-Roof-p/lvsg-625.htm

View attachment 77925

That's a lot like my DeWalt cordless drill--if I get tired of hand-cranking, I might get that adaptor. (I already take the drill for the stabilizers and BAL leveler.)

 

[RhythmScience]

Good luck! I think the only thing that can realistically be mucked up during the install is attaching the cable correctly (ie: safely). Lots of videos on YouTube if you’re unsure.

I'll definitely do some research beforehand. My main worry is that the existing cable isn't long enough--I would definitely not be happy if I had to replace the cable. We'll see...

 

[Grandpa Don]

That's a lot like my DeWalt cordless drill--if I get tired of hand-cranking, I might get that adaptor. (I already take the drill for the stabilizers and BAL leveler.)

The drill has to be a 1/2 inch drive. The 3/8 drill won't work. And use slow speed.

 

[Grandpa Don]

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[RhythmScience]

You should not have any trouble reattaching the cable. But if you do because it is too short, you can add an extension to the cable with some cable clamps or Ferrules. I made up a short emergency cable to use in case my cable breaks in the Boondocks.

I've got the 1/2" in drive DeWalt cordless drill (DCD 780). I'm not sure it'll have enough torque, but we'll see.

I saw your post about the emergency cable extension and I'd love to be able to make one. I've avoided working with wire cables because I don't have a swaging tool to crimp those ferrules. Do you think it would be secure enough using just the screw-on cable clamps?

 

[Grandpa Don]

I've got the 1/2" in drive DeWalt cordless drill (DCD 780). I'm not sure it'll have enough torque, but we'll see.

I saw your post about the emergency cable extension and I'd love to be able to make one. I've avoided working with wire cables because I don't have a swaging tool to crimp those ferrules. Do you think it would be secure enough using just the screw-on cable clamps?

I don't know about your drill. Mine is a Dewalt DCD 777. It has has two speed. I use the slow speed to raise the top. The high speed won't work. Since I haven't had to use the Emergency cable yet, I can't guarantee if the cable clamp will work or not. I'm betting they will, because like you, I don't have a Swaging tool either. The whole idea for this E cable was to use it just to get the top up and down one time in an emergency. But I think if you could barrow a Swaging tool you could make the cable permanent. I took mine down to the local hardware store and asked them to crimp it for me. Which they did at no charge. If you made it permanent you would have to take the whole camper down to the store and have them crimp it. Some places will rent the tool. I had a hard time cutting the cable to the 4 foot length I wanted. I had to use a pair of 12 inch straight-cut tin snips to cut mine. Then it took some doing to cut. But as I said, this was only supposed to be used in an emergency.

 

[Grandpa Don]

I don't know about your drill. Mine is a Dewalt DCD 777. It has has two speed. I use the slow speed to raise the top. The high speed won't work. Since I haven't had to use the Emergency cable yet, I can't guarantee if the cable clamp will work or not. I'm betting they will, because like you, I don't have a Swaging tool either. The whole idea for this E cable was to use it just to get the top up and down one time in an emergency. But I think if you could barrow a Swaging tool you could make the cable permanent. I took mine down to the local hardware store and asked them to crimp it for me. Which they did at no charge. If you made it permanent you would have to take the whole camper down to the store and have them crimp it. Some places will rent the tool. I had a hard time cutting the cable to the 4 foot length I wanted. I had to use a pair of 12 inch straight-cut tin snips to cut mine. Then it took some doing to cut. But as I said, this was only supposed to be used in an emergency.

EDITED 08/19/2021: Okay, I'm going to have to rethink my emergency cable mod. At least on my short tongue Viking Epic 1906. The weather is much cooler today so I thought I would run another test on the fridge. I didn't leave the digital thermometer in the Fridge so I had to open the camper back up to get to the fridge. I also wanted to measure the length of the emergency cable to see if it would raise the top all the way up. It did not! I put a piece of tape on the cable as a marker just forward of the Goshen tube under the camper. I then cranked the top up until the tape was right at the winch pulley. Unfortunately the top was only 3/4s of the way up. Not good! So although I don't think the idea will work for a permanent fix for a broken cable, I do believe with some work you could make it work to lower or raise the top in an emergency. You would have to brace the top with something and reposition the cable attachment point. There might be some popups out there with a much longer tongue that would give you enough extra cable for the idea to work. I'm going to have to think about this one for a while, and hope I never have to do this in the boonies.

 

[RhythmScience]

Okay fellow manual roof-raisers, I've got my DLB1200A winch from Goshen (they said it would ship on Wed., and I got it on Fri.!) and am getting ready to install. In the Dutton-Lainson instructions, it says not to put any load on the winch without at least three full turns of cable on the reel. With the cable just taught, I've got about a half-turn of cable on the reel (see pic.).

Goshen DLB1200A winch install

• RhythmScience
• Aug 21, 2021

Does anyone know if this is likely to be a problem? Is anyone else's like this? I'm guessing the idea is to keep the tension off where the end of the cable attaches to the side of the reel, but maybe three times around is just them being overly cautious? (I really, really don't want to have to swap out the cable.)