winterizing method

Discussion in 'Camper Storage / Winterizing & De-Winterizing' started by gserve, Sep 20, 2007.

  1. gserve

    gserve New Member

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    New PUP this past summer. Now its time to winterize. What is the preferred method ? RV anti-freeze or blowout the lines with air?
     
  2. paulwojo

    paulwojo Member

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    I also bought a new pup this summer and I am going with the antifreeze method. As a matter of fact I picked up the kits and antifreeze today. I am hoping to get them installed this weekend.
     
  3. gserve

    gserve New Member

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    paulwojo I see you own a Viking. What year and model is it? I bought a leftover brand new 2005 Coachmen Clipper Classic 1271ST that is made by Viking.Also how much antifreeze did you use? I have a 6 gal water heater and 23/30 gallon fresh water tank with 12v pump and outside shower.
     
  4. ksugrad

    ksugrad New Member

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    For those who have a Viking check out their web site. Go to the owners area and they have an owners manual on line with a section on winterization.

    http://www.vikingrv.com

    ksugrad
    DW, 6 grankids
    Viking Epic 2307
    2000 Ford Explorer
     
  5. paulwojo

    paulwojo Member

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    I bought a 2006 Legend 2470ST while they were clearing out older models to make room for the new ones coming in. It was new, never left their lot. I am going to install the kits this weekend, and am not sure if I will put the antifreeze in it just yet. I might get another trip in before it starts to get real cold. I bought 2 gallons though and the guy said it would be plenty. I also have the 23 gallon tank and 6 gallon water heater. No outside shower as it has one inside. I also have to winterize the cassette toilet. Always something to do.
     
  6. jhower

    jhower New Member

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    When we had our Coleman, blowing out the lines with compressed air was sufficient. That just had a hand-pumped faucet, no hot water, etc. With the Flagstaff, with hot water, water pump, outside shower, etc., anti-freeze is the way to go.

    I don't want to trust just blowing out the lines ... a couple of gallons of anti-freeze is much less expensive than replacing a pump and easier than replacing a line!

    John & Cindy in Pennsylvania
    <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle> <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle> 2007 Flagstaff 620ST, '95 Dodge Dakota
    His <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_kayak.gif border=0 align=middle> & Hers <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_kayak.gif border=0 align=middle> Pelican kayaks

    http://community.webshots.com/user/jhower55
     
  7. Luv2ridebikes

    Luv2ridebikes New Member

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    I bought 2 gallons of Antifreeze the first year and it was one more than necessary. We bypass the hotwater tank and freshwater holding tank. As long as both are manually emptied and the line from the freshwater tank to the pump drains, you don't have to worry about freeze damage with those.

    My dealer provided me with a piece of tubing attached to a connector for the pump. I disconnect the line from the tank at the pump intake and attach the tubing. Insert the tube into a gallon of antifreeze, turn on the pump and open each tap (hot and cold) until pink comes out. Our camper has inside and outside showers, sink and cassette toilet, but one gallon covers it all.

    Steve& Deb (the boys are grown & gone)
    Aspen & Riley (the 4 legged children)
    05 Fleetwood Sequoia THE QSR
    Trek, Giant, Cannondale, Univega <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle>
     
  8. thodes

    thodes New Member

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    This summer we bought a '99 Dutchmen Classic. We're the second owners on it, and the people before us took wonderful care of it.

    We don't have hot water on the pop up, and the holding tank has never been used. For winterizing, when people say "blow out the pipes", what kind of pump are you using to do that? Where's it connected to? Can anyone point me to some "directions" that might help me out?

    Thanks!

    Traci and Jack in CT <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_confused.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle>
    3 kids
    <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle>
     
  9. Gambit...

    Gambit... New Member

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    thodes

    "blow out the pipes" is getting a small adapter from your local RV place or Wal-Mart which changes the city water inlet to the type of valve found on your tires.

    Install the valve on your camper, turn on the faucet handle and have somebody hit the adapter with a high preasure air hose and when water stops shooting all over the place and only air comes out, you are done! :)

    Kim
     
  10. Retired Alex

    Retired Alex New Member

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    Winterizing a trailer is not rocket science but it is not as easy as some here suggest. There is more to it than just adding antifreeze and blowing out the lines.

    Some points to consider:
    A. If you have a water heater, install a bypass kit. This isolates the tank from the system for the winter and then the tank only has to be drained. Do not put antifreeze in the water tank. Some manufacturers say it will prematurely corrode the anode rod. I remove the rod, drain the tank and plug the hole with a plastic screw in plug for the winter.

    B. The lines on a trailer are not straight like the water lines in a house. Blowing out the lines until only air comes out a tap will not completely drain the lines. Moisture left in the lines will run to the lowest point and may be enough to fill the line and when it freezes could split the line. Use antifreeze and air.

    C. Do not use high pressure air. Use only about 40 to 45 lb/sq.in. The system is built to take this amount of pressure. Applying high pressure to the system before someone gets a tap open will blow the whole thing to pieces.

    D. Check under the trailer and look for drain plugs. On my Westlake there were 2 drain plugs at the front of the trailer, 1 for hot and 1 for cold. These were for draining the lines and were extra to the drain plugs for the fresh and hot water tanks.

    E. Don't forget to put a bit of antifreeze in each drain.

    F. Wipe any spilt/splashed antifreeze off anything white immediately - it stains.

    G. Read your owners manual and do what it says for your trailer.

    Alex & Mary Burnett
    J D (Boxer Pup)
    2000 Aerolite Cub F21
    2006 F-150 XLT
    "If alcohol is a crutch, then Jack Daniels is a wheelchair!"
    Web Page http://users.xplornet.com/~burnetta
    http://community.webshots.com/user/alexburnett

    Edited by - Retired Alex on September 24 2007 16:33:07
     

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