Winterizing popup

Discussion in 'Camper Storage / Winterizing & De-Winterizing' started by 3fortheroad, Sep 18, 2021.

  1. 3fortheroad

    3fortheroad New Member

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    Although we have had many trailers and rvs, this is our 1st experience winterizing a popup. Ours has a holding tank, hot water heater outside shower and sink.

    In the past, we have drained all the tanks, blown them out well, put rv antifreeze in the sink traps and left the taps open. Does anyone follow this same routine with their Popup? We live in Ontario Canada.
     
  2. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Its the same. No diffrent. Unless you have a cassette tolet, then i drain it. And make sure the water is out of the tube . I think inused to throw some antifreeze in there also, i dont remember, but its unlikely to break anything but the feed tube to the flush valve.
     
  3. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    Process is identical..
     
  4. davidh001_pdx

    davidh001_pdx New Member

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    Hi there, I'm a first time owner and I have several questions on how to winterize my Pop Up - i'm in a much milder winter climate (Portland OR) but want to ensure it is put to rest for the winter. I have a basic 'starter' PUP - no toilet. Did anyone share a list of must do's such as Battery off and on a trickler supply, battery out of smoke detector, etc.? Looking for any tips for winterizing...
     
  5. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    For water system winterizing, there are lots of YouTube videos out there, to watch.
    As for the rest.. here's what I do.
    Outside..
    Remove trailer battery, place in garage and cycle it on the battery maintainer every couple weeks (maintainer is shared between atv, lawn tractor and nephews boat batteries) .
    Inspect all the sealant and repair as required with proper sealants.
    Make sure propane tanks are off.
    Inflate tires to max psi plus 5 psi (it's not going anywhere and the extra 5psi in my climate helps prevent flat spots) .
    Cover tires .
    Spary things that move with a silicone based spray (steps, door hinges, coupler, stabs, tongue jack).

    Inside
    Remove all food.
    Remove anything that could freeze (awning cleaners, shampoo, etc).
    Place original bounce sheets everywhere (we use 3/4 of a large box) including under mattresses and the port where the trailers power cord is.


    Since this is your first time, also be an good idea to crawl around under the trailer and fill any and all holes in the floor around plumbing, gas lines with brass wool, silicone, mouse proof spray foam ..
     
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  6. davido

    davido Well-Known Member

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    On mine:
    • Drain the main tank.
    • Drain the water heater.
    • Remove water filter.
    • Drain the Thetford toilet freshwater tank.
    • Remove the Thetford toilet waste water cassette
    • Pour 1/3 gallon of RV antifreeze into the Thetford freshwater tank and run the pump for a moment.
    • Pour 2 and 2/3rds gallons of RV antifreeze into the freshwater tank.
    • With the water heater NOT in bypass mode: Run the pump for a moment to get a little RV antifreeze into the bottom of the water heater.
    • Switch the water heater to bypass mode. Run the pump long enough for pink to flow out of each faucet (interior shower, exterior shower, and sink)
    • Allow enough of the pink antifreeze to flow in the sink and interior shower that I see it come out of the drains.
    That's about it. Now I know I've got RV antifreeze in all the lines, including the drain lines.
     
  7. Dave2514g

    Dave2514g Member

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    Fergus, ON resident here; where are you located?
    I do a similar process to you, but after blowing out the lines I draw antifreeze directly at the pump and run each faucet until pink comes out and then leave it closed. The winterizing process is the simplest part of our pack up for winter storage. I focus the most on ensuring pests don't get into the camper while its stored in the barn. Never had an issue with either; knock on wood...
     
  8. ShanegoDave

    ShanegoDave Member

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    Cleaned out all the Food crumbs, took out all the linens, Blew out water lines, and added rv antifreeze, Officially. Closed up for the season !
     

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  9. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Nice little 5th wheel dave!
     
  10. PaulaBrensinger

    PaulaBrensinger Active Member Silver Supporting Member

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    I can't get the drain bolt open on the hot water heater. It's corroded so bad I was almost surprised to find it is hex shaped. I opened the emergency overflow but I realize that is insufficient. I've tried and tried to light this thing. I think next spring I might just buy a new one and install it. I like starting with known working good equipment where gas and flame are involved.

    My questions are, how do I know it's empty enough to install the bypass on it? Or should I just get several more gallons of RV antifreeze? And when people refer do "blowing out the lines" how do you do it? I have a compressor, but what steps do need to take?
     
  11. Dave2514g

    Dave2514g Member

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    You will have to get the drain plug out to get it drained properly. It does not have to be "bone dry" but all the water needs to run out. The idea is that water expands as it freezes so a small amount in the tank won't be an issue. The water lines are a different animal, a small amount of water here can sit in one spot and expand and rupture the lines or fittings. It's best to bypass the tank once drained and keep the antifreeze product out of the sensitive tank. As far as blowing out the lines you can purchase a brass fitting that connects to your city water connection and the other side will connect to a quick connect fitting from an air compressor. You need to be able to meter the air down to 30PSI or less to do it without damage. Open a faucet then apply the air to blow out the lines. Keep the pressure low, and only apply the air once a faucet is open. There are lots of great videos on YouTube showing all the processes of winterizing an rv. Or get someone who has had some experience to guide you the first time thru. Best of luck.
     
  12. PaulaBrensinger

    PaulaBrensinger Active Member Silver Supporting Member

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    So, I got the tools needed to remove that plug but I couldn't budge it. And then the hex head on it shed a bunch of rust and the socket no longer fit. Its dark and 35 degrees and I'm cranky. So my plan B is that I will replace the 20 year old water heater next spring. I haven't been able to get it lit anyway, because the striker thing doesn't work and though I blew out the gas line with some compressed air, I still couldn't get it to light. So I went to the next step and worked on emptying the systems. I found a blowout plug at Runnings, and set the compressor to deliver 30 psi, opened all the taps, turned on the water pump until it clearly couldn't move any more water from tank or water heater and then started blowing. I got as much out as I could. Tomorrow, in on getting antifreeze in there. I found a Kit that hooks to the water pump which I will have to figure out tomorrow. I couldn't get any into the tank by pouring it. Dark, 35°, cranky! Its goring down to 28° tonight but the heat is on in the pup. Its the best I can do right now
     
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  13. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    You could try drilling it out, but who knows. Mine was rusted in when i had the pop up, so i just used it as is. I removed the back water conections and sucked the water out of the heater with a shop vac. When it broke i would have replaced it. I did tell the new owner this also.
     
  14. PaulaBrensinger

    PaulaBrensinger Active Member Silver Supporting Member

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    Is there any reason I should not use this? Also, the city water supply on my rig has no cap. Is this a problem for my winterizing process? I'll take the compressor blowout fitting off of course. What remains is a brass hose receiver with a mesh aerator. But no cap.
     

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  15. PaulaBrensinger

    PaulaBrensinger Active Member Silver Supporting Member

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    I ultimately gave up on getting that anode out. I got all the rubbishy towels I could find and disconnected the lines. I let the tank drain into the storage box and sopped it all up with towels almost as fast as it poured out. The bypass is on. I'm off to figure out an angled funnel to pour antifreeze into the fresh water tank. There's only one funnel in my whole house and its such old polyethylene the end disintegrated when I tried to force some tubing onto it!

    Edit to add: from an auto supply I got a funnel with a hose and shill had the same problem getting anything to go in.it took two of us to accomplish it. I had to flex the fill take in the cabinet inside because it's uphill from the opening for a bit before it curves down to the floor! But I got the job done at last!

    Next I'll be retiring to my roof issues tomorrow. I'm so glad I got this part resolved as I was sure I'd have a disaster if it wasn't done soon!
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2021
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  16. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    No need for the cap reight away, but get one or bugs and stuff will nest in there.
     
  17. PaulaBrensinger

    PaulaBrensinger Active Member Silver Supporting Member

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    Ewww, bugs! Hahaha! I guess right now there's not to much activity but the first warm days of spring that will look like home sweet home to something!
     
  18. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Un-Supported Member

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    PB Blaster and a propane torch. Heat the head about 10 seconds and hit it with PB. Heat it again and do PB again. Do it 3 or 4 times. You're after expansion and contraction of the threads to break the rust. Then try a 6 point socket on it. A 6 point has more gripping surface on the bolt than a 12 point socket has. May have to add a cheater bar on the ratchet.
     

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