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Discussion in 'Power - Site Power/Batteries/Generators/Solar' started by mtndrew, Jan 29, 2018.
We stopped for a one nighter and somehow did not fully close a door on the TV. We left the camper attached to the TV, but did disconnect the 7 pin connector. In the morning when we were getting ready to leave I went to start the TV to let it warm up and found it dead. All I did was connect the 7 pin connector and waited for 5 minutes and the TV started. The camper battery bank gave it enough charge through battery charge wire in the 7 pin connector, to start the TV.
It would not have mattered if I had a 12V or 6V battery bank both are 12V's output. There are two schools of thoughts on 12V vs 6V banks. My G-31 batteries weigh in a little more heavy than a 6V 105 aleat when I was looking at them many years ago.
Most of the time we are using less than a few amps per hour, except when the furnace which draws about 6 amps run. We peak out at about 12 amps when the furnace, water pump and some lights are on at the same time. But that is just for those short periods when they are on.
As a friend of mine found out, if you have two six volts and one goes bad, you only have six volts so nothing will work. If you have two 12 volts and one goes dead, you still have 12 volts. Not common, in fact, I don't believe it is common for any battery to go totally dead without some early symptoms, but I guess it can happen (or he wasn't paying attention). And my two 12 series 27s have easily kept me up and running, with a furnace running at night, for four days. Never tried any longer.
Man, AzJoe, that is impressive. With that much power it would be cool if your PUP could fly! I am sure you run out of H2O before electricity.
I am curious about the VMAXTANKS. With the 7-stages, does this device in essence work as a combined a.) traditional Bulk/Float charger, with b.) the benefit of a battery tender? Thus saving you from purchasing two devices if you are prone towards to the plug in and forget about method of charging at home (watching the battery's water of course)?
Thanks! (I may PM you someday about the rooftop rack mod - but I don't want to mess up an electricity thread!) andrew
The VMAXTANKS 7 stage charger acts as both a bulk charger and maintainer. It will also disulfide your plates to keep things healthy. Just make sure to check your water level at least once a month if you keep it plugged in. I have one of those water level refill things to keep all of them topped off and at the same level and it reduces the chance of spilling a bunch of water in my battery compartment.
One major thing to point out is that you need to think about venting if you store batteries anywhere other then the tongue. I have two lower inlet vents and two upper forced air vents to make sure I'm not concentrating a bunch of hydrogen gas inside my battery compartment.
Thanks for the wiring configuration diagram. Is it same for every new or comparatively new camper? Mine is Viking 2107 of 2013. Is it applicable to my camper? Also can anyone tell me (I am still confused) if I am off-grid but my outside battery is fully charged will it provide electricity to outlets? to fridge? and to heated mattersses and to fridge? I understand once i am on grid my battery is charged if hooked up to converter? Thank you!
Roy, can you please tell me (I am still confused) if I am off-grid but my outside battery is fully charged will it provide electricity to outlets inside trailer? to fridge? and to heated mattersses and to fridge? I understand once i am on grid my battery is charged if hooked up to converter? Thank you!
If you have a charged battery, your 12v plugs will work, but not necessarily your AC 110 plug ins. In order for your AC power to work, you need to have an inverter plugged in.
If your fridge and heated matress are 12v, they will work without shore power, if not, you need the inverter and a single battery will not last long with a major draw on it like a heated blanket, heated matress or 110v refrigerator.
You will notice the typical 30A Power Distribution Panels for our trailer that GEOGOL submitted. All of those items connected to the 12VDC things will work from a Battery or the Converter unit when it is being fed with 120VAC from Shore Power or Generator set. Basically your lights are about you can run from your battery alone... The 120VAC receptacles only work when you have 120VAC Shore power or generator running.
What you can do however is pickup an optional Power Inverter that will take the 12VDC power from a beefed up battery bank to give you some 120VAC power and if it is large enough capacity you run your 120VAC items with only Batteries connected. This will take several batteries however to make enough 120VAC power to run anything that is high wattage like the Air Conditioner or High wattage microwave. Most folks just gets a 300W to 600w Power Inverter to run some of the home entertainment items and other low wattage things... That is what we do with ours... Can run all of LED lights, My HDTV and Radio, maybe a low wattage lap electric blanket, etc... You really need a minimum of around 220AH battery capacity to do this in one night and then recharge your batteries again the next morning so you can do it all over again for the next day/night run off the batteries... Your propane tanks will run your stove top for cooking and run your furnace along with the furnace fan running off of 12VDC for heat. Your propane tank will also run your hot water heater for hot water etc...
Just look at the 120VAC and 12VDC Power distribution panels and see what they run. The shore power connection or an generator will run the 120VAC side and a battery bank will run the 12VDC side...
Hope this makes some sense on how things work haha...
I learned to live without appliances being an avid tent camper in the 50s and 60s where all you needed was some white gas for the camp stove and bag full of D-cells batteries... With the propane tank on the trailer and bigger 12VDC battery bank I can run alot of items while being OFF-GRID in the one day/night run ... It does take some good planning however.... Study the 30AMP Power Distribution Diagram that was submitted here and see what is powered up with 120VAC and/or 12VDC... You can bring along a generator set with you but right away you will find you will not be able to run the generator at public camp grounds where other campers are there as well. Too loud to live with... This is why alot of us go for bigger battery banks to run Power Inverters to produce the 120VAC power we need. The problem to continue is all in how you recharge these batteries back rather quick and this is where the solar panels come into play. A large solar bank will recharge your batteries during the high sun and not make any noise doing it... When i am off-grid which is the way I love to camp 99 percent of the time I have to run my 2KW generator about three hours a day when allowed. If I added just a couple of 120WATT Solar panels I could get my batteries charged back up with only about one hour of running my generator and then just let the high sun continue charging the batteries while the sun is up...
Its all in the planning haha...
Thank you Roy!
your setup is similar to mine (2 group 27s) so I'd like your advice (sorry everyone, couldn't figure out how to PM on here...).
I'm heading to Yellowstone for 10 days late June into July so I'm wondering if I'll need recharge capabilities. I have LEDs throughout, USB charger for phones, and a water pump. The fridge runs on propane and the furnace may be run in mornings for wife and daughters if necessary (depends how cold the mornings are). Do you think that I can make 10 days with this setup? I appreciate the help. Thanks!